Start point - Beside A593 Nr
footbridge over river at Brathay (NY 363034)
Preface
"What a week so
far", complained Grizzly, who was staring glumly out of the
window, as the rain beat against it, in another torrential
downpour.
"We would be
soaked in seconds", replied Allen.
Tetley was sitting in
front of Dad's laptop, looking at the Met Office forecast for the
Lake District. "For Thursday, when we have a walk day with
Uncle Eric, the weather looks to be mostly dry, but the winds on
the fells are still gale force with even stronger gusts."
"It doesn't sound
too pleasant, and it would be very hard going for Uncle Eric",
replied Grizzly.
"It would be a
better idea to do a low walk", said Allen. "After all
we do not need to necessarily be on the high fells to get good
views."
During these exchanges
Shaun, with Little Eric riding on his back, had wandered in.
Little Eric said,
"I agree, your ideas make sense."
We all then gathered
round Dad's laptop, while Tetley navigated the folders to show us
the results of Dad's photographic efforts on the recent walks.
"There are some
good shots and they give a good record of the adventures, which
will be great to look back on in the future.", mused Grizzly.
The next day, we were
sitting reading the book by Bill Birkett on Scafell, when Dad
wandered in. "I have spoken to Uncle Eric about walking
tomorrow. The winds are still forecast to be very strong on the
fells, so it has been decided to do a valley walk. We will be
walking in the Skelwith area and round Tarn Hows.
"Haven't Shaun
and I done that before?", asked Tetley, who has a phenomenal
memory of past adventures.
"Yes",
agreed Dad. "We did it in June 2002, but much of the detail
has faded over time, and it will be a completely new adventure
for Allen, Grizzly & Little Eric."
"Can't wait",
shouted Little Eric, excitedly.
The Walk
Dad drove us to Uncle Eric's, where
we decamped to his car for the about 10 miles drive via
Windermere and Ambleside, to the start point on the A593 at the
boundary between Brathay & Clappersgate. While Dad got ready
we jumped into the rucksack and got settled. The road was crossed
carefully, and just a few yards along we forked left along the
path and over the bridge that spans the River Brathay, which like
all the rivers and streams was flowing quite fast after the rains
this week.
This led to Bog Lane, where almost
immediately we went left through a gateway.
"Were going the wrong way",
called out Shaun, who was scrutinising the map.
"Yes, I know we should
continue along the lane but we are going to have a look at Holy
Trinity Church, first.
William Wordsworth wrote: 'There is
not a situation outside the alps or among them more beautiful
than this'. He was describing the top of a small rugged hill,
among trees and high above the River Brathay - the site he
suggested for the building of the church. The space on the summit
was so limited that the dramatic church had to be orientated
north-south rather than customary east-west. It was built in the
Italianate style by the
Redmaynes of Brathay Hall and consecrated in 1836. The Redmaynes
made their fortune in the Italian silk trade, which may explain
the style of the Church. The burials in the sloping churchyard
are of the clergy facing west and the laity east. It is without
doubt in a beautiful and tranquil situation.
"It's time we were getting on
again", said Tetley.
"All right", replied Dad.
So, we returned to the lane, turned
left and walked along to the buildings of Jeffy Cottages, where
we went right on the permissive path through deciduous trees,
beside the fast flowing Brathay, to then rejoin Bog Lane.
Continuing along the road, the view to the right suddenly opened
up to the Langdale Pikes.
"Wow", shouted Allen.
"That's a superb view and I like way that patch of sunlight
is falling across the mountains."
"Before you ask, yes I am
going to take a few pictures", said Dad, knowing full well
what Allen is like.
The quiet lane led to the pretty
hamlet of Skelwith Fold. Here it was left, along the lane signed
Hawkshead. Long ago, there had once been at intervals gates
across this lane, for reasons that Uncle Eric and Dad could not
properly work out. While the gates have been removed the old
lichen encrusted stone slab posts still survive, like this, with
the fastening for the latch to sit in.
Below Pull Scar, the road turned
sharp left. Ahead was a gate that we went through, to walk a good
track that climbed through the glorious woodland of Pullscar
Plantation.
"Just look at the view to the
right", called out Little Eric. "There are so many
different greens in the trees."
"Oh yes", replied Dad.
"I'll stroll on while you
frame the shot", said Uncle Eric, after having surveyed the
scene.
Exiting the woodland, the path led
on, muddy at times after the rains earlier this week, to come to
an excellently signed junction.
Our route was to continue ahead to
Sunny Brow. You can see that the right turn leads to Iron Keld.
We could have followed this path, as we were to pass its other
end later. However we would have missed out on Tarn Hows and more
wonderful views to come.
At Sunny Brow, we joined another
narrow lane that led through the hamlet of Knipe Fold. Beyond,
another junction was reached and here it was right to climb a
steep hill (well the sign said we were at Hawkshead Hill), to
pass Betty Fold. The building housing a gallery and tea
room.
"That's one you have not
visited before", chimed up Allen.
"It's also too soon to make a
stop", added Shaun.
"OK", said Dad rather
downheartedly, marching on past.
"Well it's one to remember to
bring Uncle Brian, sometime", said Grizzly, helpfully.
"Ooh yes", replied Dad,
his face brightening.
Shortly we took the signed track
right to a cluster of houses, beyond climbing a rough track,
through a gate and on to open pasture. Here were more wonderful
views this time across to Fairfield and Red Screes. Below Uncle
Eric strides on towards another gate beneath more glorious trees.
Shortly beyond the gate, at a cross
of paths, we climbed the stile on the right, to follow the narrow
grassy trod, passing Rose Castle, a tiny house belonging to the
National Trust. Built in the 19th century, it is Grade II listed.
The path wound behind the house and
as it started to descend, suddenly below us was Tarn Hows. This
is one of the most popular tourist places in the Lake District,
and one of the most photographed too. Dad took a number of shots,
but after careful consideration, we think this is the best. Well
it's our story after all.
"That's Wetherlam behind",
said Tetley. "We last climbed it in July 2008, via the steep
slope on its right, Wetherlam Edge."
"I had forgotten that it was
over two years ago. My how time flies", added Allen. "We
did a story about that adventure too." Wetherlam
Little Eric, who is not as familiar
with the fells as the rest of us asked, "what is the
mountain away to the left beyond Wetherlam?"
"Coniston Old Man",
replied Shaun instantly.
Up to now we had seen only two
other walkers today, but descending to the tarn and proceeding
round it, there were people everywhere, which was hardly
surprising. Some of the groups talked in loud voices, rather
shattering the peace and tranquility. We were to be glad when we
finally got away from the tarn area. Strolled down and round the
head of the tarn below the narrow road, then on down the west
side, passing the signed path to Glen Mary with its lovely
waterfalls.
"We walked down there on an
adventure in November 2007", said Tetley.
"Oh yes", replied Shaun.
"We climbed Holme Fell and Black Crag that day too. It was
very misty and navigating to the tops was rather difficult, but
we made it."
A little further on there was a
free seat, where we all sat to have our picnic. Just here it
decided to rain, but it was not too heavy so we did not get very
wet. The shower soon passed over and it was dry again for the
rest of the walk.
Continuing on, as the head of the
tarn was reached, we left the "round the tarn" path, to
take the track heading north. This led to a gate on to a wide
track, where another substantial signpost, clearly displayed the
route options.
"Which way now?, asked Grizzly.
"Right in the direction of
Iron Keld", replied Shaun, consulting the map.
The track wound on, a gap in the
trees affording another fine view to the Langdale Pikes.
"That will make a good picture
for our story", called out Allen.
"I know", replied Dad,
hauling out the camera.
The sun is shining on Pike o'Stickle
(2323ft) and Loft Crag (2238ft). Then right, just in the shadow
is the lower summit of Thorn Crag (2106ft), with in full shadow
Harrison Stickle (2414ft) and Pavey Ark (2288ft). The bare fell
in the foreground is Lingmoor (1539ft), that lies on the opposite
side of the valley of Great Langdale, from the Pikes.
Walking on, we finally reached
another junction. Ahead the track continued towards Hawkshead,
but our route was through the gate on the left into Iron Keld
Plantation. In case you are wondering the name means 'Iron Spring'.
The wide track proceeded through the plantation, although the
trees have been considerably thinned out. After a straight
section at first, it then wound through a few bends to reach yet
another junction. The path coming in from the right, was the
opposite end of the path from the junction on the track from
Pullscar to Sunny Brow. You can now see what we would have missed
had we taken that path earlier. Staying on the track we continued
under the slopes of Black Fell, and up to a brow, where there was
a most wonderful panorama. It brought us all to a stop as we took
in the scene. We could see - The Coniston Fells, Crinkle Crags,
Bowfell, Esk Pike, Great End, Allen Crags, Rossett Pike, Langdale
Pikes, Sergeant Man, Ullscarf, Steel Fell, Helm Crag, Seat Sandal,
Dollywagon Pike, Fairfield Horseshoe, & Red Screes.
Breathtaking!!! Below is just part of the scene, showing
Helvellyn with the ridge right to Dollywagon Pike, with Seat
Sandal in the sun in front. The group of fells to the right make
up the Fairfield Horseshoe.
It just goes to show, as we have
said before, that you do not necessarily need to be high up to
get great views. Looking left, we could see a heavy rain storm
passing over Bowfell and the Crinkle Crags.
"Glad we are not over there",
remarked Tetley.
Just here there was a little
outcrop of rocks, where we sat for Dad to take our picture. Well,
you did not think you were going to get away without us making an
appearance?
The path now descending steadily,
eventually brought us to the main A593 from Ambleside to Coniston.
It was right along this, taking extreme care at the first bend.
Passing the entrance to Stephen How, shortly we joined the
permissive path through the woods, above the road, to come to a
narrow lane, descending to this by a short flight of steps.
"Where now?", asked
Little Eric
Once again Shaun came up with the
answer, after consulting the map. "We climb up this lane,
until we reach the end of the wood, where we take a narrow steep
path down through the woods, to come to the road by the Skelwith
Community Centre. It is a typically Lakeland stone building that
had once been the local school. Turning right along the road, we
then went left at the next junction to climb the short steep hill
to Skelwith Fold, coming along the lane down the hill in the
picture below.
Turning left at the junction, we
rejoined the outward route, to pass Brathay Church and cross the
bridge to reach the car.
"What a lovely walk",
said Allen.
"You're right", the rest
of us chorused in unison.