A CIRCULAR WALK from BURTON IN LONSDALE via TUNSTALL, COWDBER FARM & LAITHBUTTS FARM

 


Summary

Date - 12th October 2014 & 11th November 2014 Distance - 8.5 miles
Ascent -
630ft
Map - OL2 Start point - Burton in Lonsdale (NY 6496 7220)

 

Summits Achieved

No summits were reached on this walk

 

Preface

Southey had the iPad in paw, and remarked. "Dad's shoulder and neck were not too good after he and Uncle Brian's visit to Armathwaite Hall, and if the diary is anything to go by they have lots of days booked over the next few weeks, so walking may have to take a bit of a back seat."

"During the stay Dad spent a lot of time continuing the website upgrade, which probably accounts for his discomfit, but that is now completely done and dusted, meaning he will spend less time on the laptop", replied Allen.

"He has worked so hard, but the look a feel of our website is so much more professional", added Tetley.

It was then that Shaun, with Little Eric riding on his back and carrying the flasks, and Grizzly, carrying the cake tin, arrived.

"Ooh tea and cakes!", cried Southey, immediately going off to get the mugs and plates.

"Great!", added Allen, "I'm gasping for a cuppa and my tummy is rumbling too."

"No change there then", replied Tetley, letting out a bellow of laughter. "You really are a tea belly and cake stuffer pal. Just like Dad!"

By now Southey had returned and helped Shaun in pouring the tea and passing the steaming mugs round.

"Thanks pal", said Tetley. "What's the cake today, Grizzly?"

"There's a choice. Little Eric has made apricot and peach slice, while I have done chocolate caramel shortbread."

"Lovely, I'll have a piece of each, please", said Southey.

We sat quietly munching away, Allen breaking the silence to say, "the cakes are delicious, pals. Thanks as always for making them."

Grizzly replied, "you're welcome. I also have other more important news. Dad wants to get out for a walk and looking at the forecast, he is resolved to go on Sunday."

"Yippee", cried Little Eric.

Shaun then said, "Dad has a lot of commitments in the following week, so has said that it will not be on the fells but a more local walk, and he has tasked us with coming up with the route."

"It will be just great to be out, and if I do not get the planned summits bagged this year, never mind. They are not going anywhere, and there will be more to look forward to next year", said Little Eric.

"Right then", said Tetley, "we need to put our thinking caps on."

There was silence for a while, then Allen suggested, "what about trying to devise a walk off the map in the Lune Valley. There must still be some areas we haven't covered yet."

"Good thought", replied Shaun, "I'll go and get the OL2 map."

He spread this out, and we all scanned over it, Southey suggesting, "maybe we can walk from Burton in Lonsdale, where Dad will be able to park quite easily."

After a few seconds Shaun said, "look there is a path that goes roughly north, and then splits."

"Seems best to take the left fork to Longber, and then continue north-west to Scaleber", suggested Tetley.

"There is a further choice after that", said Southey.

"Well I think it best to go to Longriggs Barn then west to come to Tunstall Church", replied Shaun.

"Yes that's fine", said Allen, "then we head north past Churchfield House to the road corner, and go right on the track to Cowdber Farm, before turning south via Collingholme and Laithbutts and so back to Longber, and then just a short repeat to the start."

"Yes that's good", agreed Shaun. "A nice round all along paths none of us Dad included have been on before. "I'll just run the highlighter over the route, so that it will stand out and make it easier to follow on the day."

That done, Allen picked the map up and said, "I'll go and see what Dad thinks to the idea."

As he trotted out, Tetley said, "pour him another mug of tea, Shaun, he is bound to want one when he gets back."

As he walked in the room the smile on his face told us Dad had agreed. "Thanks Shaun", he said accepting the mug of tea. "Dad is very happy with our proposal, and says that he will be able to go to Elaine's for tea afterwards."

"Great, that means we will get to go in as well", added Grizzly.


We were to repeat this walk just a month later with Uncle Eric. It had been two months since our last walk with him, and it was just great to have his company. Weather wise it was a different day by far, with overcast skies and some light rain for about 15 minutes towards the end, and strong winds. We got a bit wet in consequence, but that is one of the hazards we face on our adventures. The first time for out latest pal Southey, but he took it in good part and we soon dried out once back in the car. A change to the route at Longber, and gaining some more information at Tunstall Church, added further to the interest and enjoyment of the day. These will be referred to in the account below. Dad did not take his camera this time, so all the photographs are from 12th October.

 

The Walk

It is not all that far to Burton in Lonsdale, so we did not have to set off too early, and Dad planned that we would start walking about 10:30. The day was to be like summer with blue skies and no wind, although we encountered patches of mist and fog on the drive up the valley. Just perfect walking weather.

"The main street is usually busy with parked cars", remarked Tetley, as we drove along.

"Yes lad", agreed Dad, "so it will be best to park on he road at the entrance to the village just before the church."

We waited patiently as Dad got ready, Grizzly pointing out the Motte & Bailey, across the road. "We have visited that on the walk we did from Bentham, via here and Ingleton."

"Yes and I have too when it was repeated with Uncle Eric, this year. Looking across the fields the other way, Southey then said, "what is that hill?"

"Gragareth", replied Allen, instantly. "We have climbed that a few times, the last with Uncle Bob. There are three tall cairns on the slopes leading up to the summit, that are known as The Three Men of Gragareth.

"It was back in January 2011", added Tetley. "Dad took our picture at the Three Men."

This is included below. We can be seen sitting on the central cairn.

Our reminiscing was broken by Dad calling out, "I'm ready, so come and get settled in the rucksack."

"OK", replied Grizzly, as we hurried over.

"Which way do we go?", asked Southey.

Shaun replied, "the map shows the footpath starting at the boundary of some buildings a little way off this road, so we need to find a way through. It is just about opposite the road to Bentham."

Dad strode off and coming to the houses, Allen called out, " look there is a road, Manor Close, off to the left. At its end is a gate into a field that must mark the start of the footpath."

"That's it", agreed Shaun.

"You know, I have driven through Burton many many times, but I have never noticed this road", said Dad.

At the end, Dad climbed the stile beside the gate to then cross the field half left to a tiny bridge over a stream and stile.

A bit difficult to discern in the picture, but there are two waymarks on the top rail above the steps of the stile. Shaun said, "we follow the one pointing half left across the next field, to the gate by that tall shapely tree that will make a nice picture too."

The waymark on the gatepost by the tree then indicated that we should pass through the gate and head along by the hedge on the right and so through the gate in the corner. Then drifting slightly left to pass Breastfield Barn, it was on through a gateless gap, then on to a gap stile and beyond through a gate and over a little footbridge.

Now in a large pasture that looked like it may have been planted, Little Eric said, "where now."

"We head to Longber Farm, away to the left", replied Shaun.

Dad kept close by the hedge on the left and then round the end of the field to a gate into the farmyard and then winding our way though the buildings. Some cows eating their food in a large open sided barn, eyed us up as we passed by.

At the end we came out on to the access track. Just a month later the route through the farm had changed with the footpath being diverted and new waymarks being erected. So anyone contemplating this walk should note the correct route is now as follows.

After the gap stile, the path is now left across the field to a metal gate leading into the farmyard. Note the area round then gate is very muddy after rain. Going right, the path now climbs up the slope ahead into the large field. Here the waymark directs you left above the farm buildings, to the junction of paths. Dropping left through a gateway leads to the track by the bungalow. Turning right up the field takes you over the hill in the direction of High Barn (this was our return route).

"I guess we go on ahead over the fields", called out Southey.

"Now hold on", replied Shaun. "Let's have a good look at the map first, as I do not really think that is the way pal."

Scrutinising it carefully and looking around too, after a few seconds Shaun pointed and said, "we should follow the track past that bungalow, over there."

"Ooh dear, I would have sent us the wrong way", said Southey worriedly.

"Don't worry pal, I have had a lot of experience and it shows how essential it is to always take a map, so that you do not get lost", replied Shaun. "You will gain the experience as time goes by, and I am more than happy to give you instruction in map reading."

"Thanks pal, I would like that", said Southey.

The wide track was hedged for the most part but latterly open to one side as we got near to Scaleber Farm seen across the fields.

Indeed we felt sure that this served as the access track, judging by the fact that a name plate was affixed to a short section of stone wall at the entrance.

Ahead we went through a waymarked gate to the buildings, then winding right to a gate and then the left to another. Then finally through a further one out into pasture once again. It was here that we met a group of about 8 walkers coming the opposite way, the only other walkers we met all day.

Shaun showed Southey the map, pointing out where we were, and saying, "see we go down to that gate ahead."

"Oh yes I see.", he replied. Then as we arrived Southey went on, "there are two waymarks."

"That's right", replied Shaun. "It is a junction of paths, and we need to follow the one pointing right that will lead to Longriggs Barn."

"Yes, I can see that. It is easy when you know how to interpret the map, but I will need a lot more instruction to be a good as the rest of you", said Southey.

As we approached the barn, Allen called out, "the path is waymarked ahead to the right of the barn."

"That is not shown as a footpath, but is in fact a track that leads eventually to Laithbutts, which we will pass through on the way back, said Shaun. "Our route is left by the hedge running away from the barn."

Looking over Shaun's shoulder Tetley said, "what is significant is that the signed path is on the line of a Roman Road, it then going straight on ahead, where the track Shaun referred to swings right by the tree." Later searching the Internet, we found that this was part of the Roman Road that ran from Ribchester to Carlisle.

Leaving the barn the way descended to a gate with a stream, swollen by the recent rains, running across the path.

Southey had looked at the map, and said, "we just keep on ahead to another gate and then down to a bend in the wall or fence."

"See you are getting the hang of it", said Little Eric.

"Thanks pal, but I know it can be much more complicated."

Beyond the gate it then looked like we should cross the wall, but as we go closer Tetley said, "we take the gate on the right into that hedged/fenced track."

Pleasant to walk this led us past a house to then shortly be faced with the Cant Beck.

"However are we to get over that", called out Southey.

"Over to the left", replied Grizzly, "we cross the footbridge."

"Oh heck", cried Southey, "I can't see the wood for the trees." [that's a bit of an awful pun (can't/Cant) Ed.]

Dad paused on the bridge to take this pretty shot of the hurrying stream, whose waters eventually end up in the River Lune.

Beyond the bridge the way was clear across the field to a signposted gate onto the road.

"We go left", said Shaun.

Through the trees ahead we could see the tower and east end of Tunstall church, dedicated to St John the Baptist.

Shaun then said, "you see that signpost behind the gate. That is the way we have to go along the tarmac drive that leads to Churchfield House."

As we approached Grizzly said, "it is not far out of the way, so can we visit the church, as I love to look round them."

"Of course, lad", replied Dad.


ST JOHN the BAPTIST CHURCH, TUNSTALL

We entered the churchyard via a gate, to find a lady busily taking photographs, and as we approached the door she called out, "it is open."

"That's just what I wanted to hear", said Grizzly, with glee.

Dad then chatted a bit to her, and she asked where we had come from, so Dad explained. She was trying to identify an supposedly ancient cross. Looking at the map Dad said, "it is marked as being on the south side, near where we are standing in fact."

There was a Celtic type cross forming part of the war memorial, but this to us did not seem to be old, so whether this was what she was looking for do not really know. Next to this was a column on an octagonal base of three steps. Perhaps this we thought. but research when we got home revealed it to be a sandstone sundial base dating probably from the 18th century.

So starting our exploration, Dad walked round to find the best spot to get a view of the church, this being taken from the north-east.

A church at Tunstall is recorded in the Domesday Survey but the oldest structure in the present church dates from the 13th century, being rebuilt around 1415 by Sir Thomas Tunstal.  Alterations were made in the 16th century and the church was restored in 1907 by architects Austin and Paley of Lancaster. This included re-roofing the church, enlarging the organ chamber, and adding a vestry at a cost of about £1,000 (£90,000 in 2014).  In the 1820s the church was attended by the Brontë sisters during the time they were receiving education at the Clergy Daughters' School at nearby Cowan Bridge. The school appears as Lowood, and the church Brocklebridge Church in Jane Eyre.

Here is the view from the south-west showing the substantial porch that like the aisles has an embattled parapet.

"Come on Dad, let's go inside", implored Grizzly. Once in he said, "please take a picture along the nave."

The lady had told us that there was a Roman votive stone that had been reused in the north aisle. "Let's see if we can find it", encouraged Grizzly.

"OK pal, it will be a fun game", replied Little Eric.

Well we looked high and low, but did not spot it and Grizzly rather downheartedly said, "looks like we are not going to get to see it."

"Well I noticed that there is a guide book for sale, so perhaps that will help", suggested Tetley.

"I have no money with me, so we will not be able to buy one", replied Dad, "but I guess they will not mind if just for that we use it as a reference book." He thumbed through and finally said, "ah here we are. It is in the left jamb of the eastern most window of the north aisle."

We walked back and looking up, Allen called out, "there it is." This picture has been rotated to show the inscription as written. In situ the stone is lying on its side. The stone is to Asclepius and Hygieia, Greek god of medicine and goddess of health, so perhaps the votary was the medical officer of Burrow camp.

From the nave Dad now took this shot along the chancel.

"I wonder what the figures either side of the east window are?", mused Grizzly. On our second visit with Uncle Eric, he discovered the answer to Grizzly's question. The figures stand on plinths that are angel brackets, as can be seen from the carving. The sculptures represent St Michael and St John, and have stood here since 1972. They are by the famous sculptress Josefina de Vasconcellos (1904-2005).

"Well that just leaves the small chapel on the south side to visit", said Grizzly.

This is known as the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, and as we entered our eyes were drawn to a floor level alcove in the south wall. "look there is a stone effigy, that has seen better days as the legs broken", said Tetley. Research revealed that this is said to be of Sir Thomas Tunstal.

This concluded out exploration and on leaving Grizzly said, "thanks pals and Dad for being so patient.


Right then back to the walk, and as instructed earlier by Shaun we took the tarmac drive leading to impressive Churchfield House. Beyond the buildings a kissing gate led us into pasture.

Through another gate and then over a stile we made further progress to come to and pass Kirkriggs Barn.

Sheep were grazing along this section and our hopes of having a sheep picture free story were dashed. "Damn" said Allen, in exasperation.

A gate then allowed access to the next field and another gate to then pass some farm buildings and so along a wide track, passing a house and reaching the road at a corner.

"Which way along the road?", asked Little Eric.

"Neither actually", replied Shaun. With Little Eric looking a bit mystified, he then said, "it is along the track to the right to Cowdber Farm, as indicated by the stone sign. We will follow it all the way to the farm too."

After passing some woodland on the right, the track became more open. There were some metal hatch covers on the left verge Tetley saying, "they look rather familiar. My guess is that they are inspection hatches for one of the aqueducts carrying water to Manchester."

As we approached Shaun spotted a label, and said "you are spot on pal, it's the Haweswater Aqueduct."

Ever practical Allen said, "they will make a good place to sit for our lunch."

"Quite", agreed Southey. "I was getting rather hungry."

So we gathered round, as can be seen below.

It was so very nice in the warm sunshine, and we and Dad enjoyed the rest. Dad had started off wearing his waterproof jacket, but so warm it was for the time of year this was very soon stowed in the rucksack, and he walked in just his t-shirt. His coat then provided us with a nice soft cushion to sit on. We were soon settled after having our sandwiches and cake, but not before Dad took our group picture. The words 'Haweswater Aqueduct', can just about be made on on the bottom line of the label.

Strolling on the track skirted left of Cowdber Hill, soon then coming to the farm.

"We should ignore the access and keep going ahead through those two gates and then across the field", instructed Shaun.

The grass in the field was very lush and at its far side we reached a gate onto a grassy track. "This is the Roman Road again", said Shaun, looking up from the map."

"That's twice, and not a soldier in sight. Must be their day off", said Tetley laughingly.

Half right a short distance away was a gate with large wooden planks forming a stile. "That's our route", pointed out Shaun.

Over this, the next stile was clearly seen in the fence ahead to the left. We crossed the pasture diagonally to another stile and then immediately left to a gate, beyond which it was diagonally right now to gate and a junction of paths.

"There is a building ahead", said Little Eric.

"That is Collingholme, to which we are heading" replied Shaun.

The next field led to a short walled track and bridge over the Cant Beck again. Dad then headed straight forwards towards some gates, but Shaun said, "hold on, I am not sure that is the way."

They both looked at the map and worked out that the footpath skirted round the building to the right. The problem was that Dad did not go far enough, rather climbing a set of metal steps, after the first building and over a gate to gain the yard again.

Now a bit confused Dad asked a lady who lives here, and she explained we needed to go back over the gate then climb up the slope to the left and over the cattle grid. This we did and came to a wide tarmac track that we would have found had we gone to the far end of the buildings in the first place.

"It is right here", said Shaun, "the track leading down to Laithbutts."

Progress was stopped because Allen called out, "that is a fine view of Ingleborough."

What he didn't bargain for was Dad getting the sheep in the foreground!

At Laithbutts a signpost directed us left. Approaching the house, Shaun said, "we now need to take the track right, here."

OK lad", replied Dad.

Soon this climbed a little and through a gate we were in open pasture again leading on to pass Out Barn. Dropping down and looking left was a huge field that had been ploughed and rolled, with distantly on the skyline the ruins of another barn.

His head buried in the map, Shaun soon said, "that is High Barn, and we need to head for it."

Glancing left, Southey called out, there is a gate, in the fence with a waymark."

"Well spotted pal", said Tetley, we headed to it crossing a small footbridge over the stream allowing access."

The field was truly enormous and we all felt so tiny and insignificant as Dad made his way across. The first part was a bit difficult as the water had drained down, and the mud rather sucked at Dad's boots. We should add too that they were new Scarpa boots that he had bought in Keswick, during the stay at Armathwaite Hall. They were well and truly mucked up now, but nothing to the hammer they will face over the years to come.

Climbing steadily the ruins of High Barn came ever nearer. "We should go through the gate in the wall at the top to the left of the barn", said Shaun.

Nearing this there was yet another fine view of Ingleborough, and we make no apologies for including it.

Beyond the wall we passed to the left of High Barn, to another gate to then descend the pasture to a gap. With the rain this was muddy and slippery so after the gap as we climbed over the hill, Dad walked to the side in the longer grass. At the top Longber Farm came into view and behind standing out clearly the spire of Burton in Lonsdale church. Strolling on it was down to the farm reaching the start of the track we had taken earlier that leads to Scaleber Farm.

The rest of the walk was now just a reverse of our outwards route. In the farmyard were a number of young calfs in little pens with calf hutches for them to sleep and shelter in.

Looking up we noticed the bull giving us a very considered look through a hatch in the barn!

Then we returned to Burton, and passing the church the clock struck 3pm. This put us in mind of the lines from the poem Grantchester by Rupert Brooke. Southey, being named after a poet, came up with the following couple of lines, for the occasion now, with humble apologies -

Stands the church clock just at three
And will there now be scones for tea

"At Elaine's of course ", cried Tetley in reply.

So of course this is where Dad now headed for and we went in too sitting quietly at the table. Now unlike millions of people today Dad is very anti mobile phones, and often as was the case today forgets to take it when we go walking. So not wanting Uncle Brian to worry where Dad was and to let him know what time he would be getting home, he asked Elaine if he could call him. The number is coded in our home phone, so came up 'Elaine's' when he made the call.

Uncle Brian knew instantly that it was Dad, and answered jokingly (we think), "how dare you!"

Further conversation followed including Uncle Brian asking what Dad was having. As he rang off he said, "I hope it chokes you."

He had a pot of tea and a lovely absolutely delicious fruit scone with butter and jam. Without a doubt Elaine's scones are the very best! He saw and chatted to Sheila which was nice as she does not work on a Monday.

So thanks Dad for another super day, and maybe we will be back on the fells again next time!

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