A BEARS' HOLIDAY TO THE
NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS
27th JUNE to 1st JULY 2010
Preamble
We had thought that Uncle Brian and
Dad's next holiday, would have been a return visit to the Peebles
Hotel Hydro, but for various reasons this turned out not to be
the case. Instead, after many years, they decided to revisit the
North Yorkshire Moors, staying again in Goathland, but at a
different hotel.
When he heard, Scooter remarked to
his best pal Higson (usually known as Higgy), "they're bound
to go on the North Yorks Moors Railway, so that will mean we will
be going with them. It will be great to ride it again too,
especially as the trains now run into Whitby."
"As the member bear I will be
particularly proud", replied Higgy excitedly. "It will
be great for the rest of our railway bear pals, Chuffer, Dale and
Dunstan, as they have never been before", he went on.
"I wonder who else will be
going too?", mused Scooter.
"Fred and Gladly for certain,
as being the Chief Hug Bears, they always go. I guess too, that
Fletcher will be with us, as coming from Armathwaite Hall Hotel,
he will be checking out the hotel in Goathland", replied
Higgy.
"I'm sure you're right",
said Scooter. "As for the rest we will just have to wait and
see."
The journey to Goathland
This was all a few weeks before, so
we had to wait patiently for the day of departure to arrive,
which rather unusually was a Sunday.
We heard Fred, asking his Uncle
Gerry, "why?"
"It is because the hotel does
not have a lift, so going on Sunday means we can have a room on
the first floor so that your Dad only has to climb one flight of
stairs."
The luggage was carried out and
stowed in the boot, then Dad settled us on the back seat. Higgy
had been right about who was joining the railway bears, and in
addition our pals Vik and Marty went too. Vik because he came
from York, which is not all that far from Goathland, and Marty,
our donkey pal from Cyprus, as Dad thought that one non bear
should go.
As we drove on our way, Gladly said,
"which way are we going, Dad."
The scenic route through the
Yorkshire Dales", replied Dad.
"Let's hope he does not start
naming all the hills he and STAG have climbed, like he does in
the Lake District", yawned Fred.
Up the Lune Valley then to Ingleton,
famous for its waterfalls
Fletcher remarked, "they will
be pretty low after all the dry weather."
The road from here was very
familiar to Dad and STAG, having been driven many times on
journeys to meet Uncle Bob for walks.
Suddenly Dunstan called out, "look
there is Ribblehead Viaduct on the Settle-Carlisle line. Isn't it
magnificent."
"Yes", agreed Dale,
" We will be going over that in about a months time on that
steam train special."
"The hill behind is Whernside,
the highest in the Yorkshire Dales", added Dad.
He's off", said Fred. " I
knew he could not resist for long."
Not long after this Dad pulled off
the road at a farmhouse. "This is the home of Eileen's Cakes,
he announced. I haven't called for ages so I had better show my
face." It was just as well as Eileen was wondering if Dad
and Uncle Brian were all right. As well as scrumptious cakes like
chocolate and orange, she makes scones too, fruit and cheese, the
latter being particularly tasty. An order for three cakes and a
dozen each of the scones was placed for collection on our return
on Thursday.
We were soon at Hawes, and then it
was along Wensleydale passing through Aysgarth where there are
famous waterfalls too. Then through the villages of Swinithwaite
and West Witton to Wensley. This gives its name to the dale. Here
we turned right to cut a corner, to join the road from Leyburn to
Masham. They had planned to have lunch in Masham, but events
beyond their control were to change this. A few miles from Masham,
rounding a corner we were stopped behind a line of traffic.
Looking ahead, Fred shouted, "look
there is a helicopter just taking off."
Eagle eyed, Gladly replied, "it
is the Great North Air Ambulance , I have seen a few programmes
on television recently that has featured it."
We were all excited to see it, non
more so than Gladly, but we were saddened too, as we knew that
there must have been an accident, and someone, possibly seriously
injured, was having to be flown to hospital. The road was
completely closed, so we had to turn back.
Dad suggested that it might be as
well to go to the cafe at Jervaulx Abbey for lunch, to allow time
for the road to reopen. A toasted ciabatta sandwich and tea
fortified them. On towards Masham again, but a flash of headlights
from an oncoming car indicated the road was still closed. So, Dad
employed a detour on back lanes that he knew from the last time
he had met Uncle Bob for a walk in Nidderdale. This took us
though the pretty villages of Healey and Fearby. They are quite
charming and we and Uncle Brian would not have seen them
otherwise. So finally we were at Masham. Home of the breweries of
Theakstons and Black Sheep. Both whose ales Dad and Uncle Brian
are partial to.
It was across country now to the
market town of Thirsk, before crossing the plain, to climb the
steep winding road of Sutton Bank. Next was the pretty town of
Helmsley, then on to Pickering, another lovely market town. All
along we had thought how beautiful and mellow is the stone used
in the houses.
"Where now?", asked
Chuffer.
"We take the road towards
Whitby that climbs up onto the moors", replied Uncle Brian.
As we drove along, suddenly a large
concrete looking building came into view on the moors to the
right. "Whatever is that", said Marty.
"It is the Fylingdales early
warning and listening station", replied Higgy knowingly.
Soon now we took the turning on the
left signed Goathland. Dropping down we first saw the church,
opposite which was the Mallyan Spout Hotel, where we were staying.
The window of our room is first
floor on the right. Dad brought in the luggage, and we all
trooped in. There was a large window sill where most of us
settled, Fred and Glad bagging the easy chair. It had been a long
journey, made more so by the detour, so we and Uncle Brian just
wanted to rest and relax. Dad however was restless.
"For heaven's sake, go for a
walk and leave us to peace and quiet", said Gladly.
"While you're at it you can
take some pictures and do the next part of our tale", added
Fred, yawning loudly.
Dad's tale of Sunday afternoon
The hotel takes its name from the
waterfall in the valley behind. It was in 1993 that I first went
to see it with Brian, so a revisit was the first thing I decided
to do this afternoon. A gate at the side of the hotel gives
access to a path that descended in large steps for the most part,
down to the West Beck. At the t-junction by the beck, I went
right for about 500 yards, clambering over the rocks for the last
part. The waterfall is on the left dropping some 60 feet. Despite
the dry weather it still made an impressive sight.
Although I did not follow it, the
path continues alongside the West Beck that curves right a this
point. It made a nice pastoral scene.
After viewing the scene for a few
minutes more, I retraced my steps to the path junction and
climbed steadily to the hotel. With time to spare and not wanting
to disturb the Lads and Brian, I walked to the centre of the
village, that was as usual busy with tourists. This is because in
the television series Heartbeat, it is Aidensfield. Although the
series is no longer made, many tourists are attracted to
Goathland, to see the sights like the shop.
Outside is parked a police Ford
Anglia, used in the series. This is now an exhibit to raise money
for charity.
A little further along the road
towards the station is the Goathland Hotel, where Brian and I
stayed in 1993. In Heartbeat this was the Aidensfield Arms, and
filming in the bar etc regularly took place here.
In Heartbeat, Bernie Scripps is the
garage owner and funeral director. His premises are opposite the
Goathland Hotel. Since filming has ceased it is now more of a
souvenir shop.
So, having done the Heartbeat tour,
I rounded the corner, where the wide verges, the property of the
Duchy of Lancaster, stretch away towards the hotel.
They are kept neat, for the most
part, by the sheep that wander freely about the village
completely oblivious to the traffic. It is the cars and other
vehicles that have to give way.
Having told Brian and the Lads
about what I had seen, I then rested before changing for dinner.
The Mallyan Spout Hotel is excellent in every respect, not least
for the delicious gourmet food we enjoyed each evening.
Monday
"Hi, I'm Fred."
With my brother Gladly and our pals
Fletcher, Marty and Vik, we went out to enjoy the fresh sea air
at the coast.
"What is the plan Uncle Gerry?"
"I am hoping to take you and
your Dad to see the pretty little harbour of Staithes, just north
of Whitby."
So after breakfast off we went
driving down through Goathland, so we saw all the places
associated with Heartbeat, that Uncle Gerry has described above.
Then joining the main road we turned north to pass through
Sleights.
Suddenly, Vik called out, "did
you see that sign."
"Yes", replied Fletcher.
"It pointed to a place called Ugglebarnby."
"What a glorious name", I
added.
Skirting Whitby, it was then to
Sandsend, where the cliffs, called Sandsend Ness as very imposing.
Looking south, the beach stretched
away to Whitby, the abbey ruins standing out on the headland.
Then the road cut inland passing
Ellerby and Hinderwell and to Staithes, but Uncle Gerry drove
right past the sign.
"You've missed the turning Dad",
called out Gladly.
"Yes I know, but the car park
is at the top of a steep hill and Uncle Brian cannot manage the
walk. Instead we are going to Cowbar where hopefully we can park
and then walk across the bridge to Staithes", Dad replied.
It seemed like a good plan, but the
best laid plans...etc.
At Cowbar we were faced with a sign
saying access is by permit only. Nevertheless Uncle Gerry's plan
was to drive down, drop Dad off, then park at the top and walk
down. This would have been fine, but for works that were going on.
Uncle Gerry walked down to find the road blocked by a trailer,
and as a result he would not be able to turn the car round. So
the idea had to be abandoned.
So instead they decided to return
to Sandsend where we could park easily. It was lunch time, so Dad
and Uncle Gerry with us in tow, set off to walk along the front
to a cafe. Part way Dad wanted to rest so we took the opportunity
to sit in the stern of a little boat called Andrew, for our
picture.
Vik,
Gladly, me, Fletcher, with Marty in front
Here the road does a loop as it
crosses the estuary of the Row Beck, seen here with the pretty
houses and The Hart Inn.
Fairly soon now we reached the
Sandside Cafe, and none to soon for my Dad, as it had been
further to walk than it initially seemed.
We got a table tucked in the corner
of the railed seating area, and we settled on the seat looking
out to sea. It was sunny and warm, and the Whitby crab sandwiches
were delicious. Dad and Uncle Gerry had them too, with pots of
tea. My Dad then had a sausage roll, while Uncle Gerry had a
large piece of cake. No surprise there I thought.
We were reluctant to leave, so
idyllic was it here, but the cafe was busy all the time and it
would not have been right to hog the table any longer. The loo
was the next stop, the downside being that it was even further
along the front away from the car. Oh dear, I thought my Dad will
never manage to walk back.
As we got there Uncle Gerry said,
"there is a seat here. You sit here while I go and get the
car and pick you up."
"Thanks", replied Dad.
We stayed with him too. A couple
who were waiting for the bus to Whitby (they had walked along the
beach from there this morning), sat and chatted to Dad, so he was
not short of company.
We now made our way back to
Goathland, visiting the church.
St Mary's Church is squat, but
nevertheless a lovely building. It is built from sandstone from a
nearby quarry.
The first church (St Mary's Chapel)
stood on or near this site from the late 16th century. The
present church was designed by William Brierley, a well known
York architect, and was completed in 1896, a fact that is clear
for all to see in the weather vane on the tower.
The leaflet that Uncle Gerry
purchased, states that the style is Perpendicular with overtones
of Arts and Crafts particularly reflected in the woodwork, much
of it done by Robert 'Mouseman' Thompson of Kilburn. He carved
trademark mice on this furniture. There are apparently nine and a
half mice, but we were too tired to go on a hunt. Maybe next time
we are here.
The strong arches to east and west
of the chancel bear the tower that houses the clock and five
bells on which the quarters are sounded, which we could hear
clearly from our room. It keeps extremely accurate time too.
There is some fine pictorial
stained glass, including this window on the south side of the
nave by J C N Bewsey, whose 'mark' can be seen in the bottom
right hand corner. The figures represented are from the left, St
Aidan, St Hilda and St Cuthbert - saints connected with Whitby
and the Early Church in the North East.
The history lesson over, I then
said to Uncle Gerry, "to round off our day will you take our
picture in the churchyard."
"Of course Fred", Uncle
Gerry replied.
Tuesday
Hi Higgy, here. Today was the
Railway Bears' trip on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, and
here they are waiting for the 09:45 train from Goathland to
Whitby.
l-r
Dale, Scooter, Me, Dunstan & Chuffer
We travelled on a number of trains,
and such was the number of pictures that Dad kindly took, it has
been decided that our day will be the subject of a separate story.
Click the link - Bears on NYMR
The gardens at the rear of the
hotel face west over the valley to a line of hills. It was a
glorious evening making for a wonderful sunset. The midges were
out in force, but Dad went and braved them to get this picture.
Wednesday
Hi Vik here. It was the last day,
and Dad and Uncle Brian had decided to find the remains of the
Roman Road on Wheeldale Moor.
"Does anyone want to come with
us", asked Dad.
"Yes please", I said, as
I like things to do with history.
"Me too", called out
Fletcher.
"And me", cried Marty not
wanting to be left out.
From the hotel the road we wanted
was just a few yards on the right. After a while we took a narrow
road branching left, coming to a parking area by a building.
"I am sure this is where we
came all those years ago", said Uncle Brian.
"I think you are right. But on
that occasion we walked to it", replied Dad.
We could see that it was some
distance, and knew that Uncle Brian would not be able to manage.
"Back at the junction, one
sign said access by motor car", I said.
"I know", said Uncle
Brian, "but this map is not detailed enough."
Just then Dad had an inspired
moment (it does not happen very often). He rummaged in his map
drawer by the dashboard, and lo and behold found a map of the
area. This plainly showed the route we needed to take, so off we
went. It was a long circuitous route, on narrow roads, so we
where glad not to meet too much traffic. But finally we arrived
and Dad was able to pull the car off on the verge.
By a stile was an information board,
which we make no apologies for quoting from below. Immediately
beyond the "road" stretched away. The first few yards
were in fact the best preserved, having been excavated.
It is known as Wheeldale Road or
Wade's Causeway. Shrouded in mystery it is a place where history
meets legend. There are questions about who built it, how old it
is, and where did it lead to?
For many years archaeologists had
few doubts that it was Roman. Looking at the map the road appears
to link the Roman forts of Cawthorn and Lease Rigg. Indeed it has
been further suggested that the road runs south to connect with a
road running west from the Roman garrison at Malton. So maybe the
legions built it when they invaded this wild terrain.
Now its origins are less certain.
The road is surfaced with stone slabs, yet most Roman roads had a
gravel surface. Instead of being straight it has many slight
changes of direction, something we noticed as we walked along
with Dad. To an extent this can be seen in the picture below.
This leads some archaeologists to
believe that it may have been built late in the Roman era when
standards had changed. Some even believe that it may pre-date the
Romans.
Of course we could not let the
opportunity pass, of having our picture taken on the road. In the
footsteps of the Romans.....
Finally there is the Legend of Wade.
As you may suspect, Wade's Causeway is not the original name of
this ancient road. Local legend tells of a giant named Wade who
once lived in the area. He is said to have built the road for his
wife, Bell, to herd her sheep along on the way to moorland
pastures.
All this gave us a lot of food for
thought and plenty to tell our other pals when we returned to the
hotel. This we did after Dad and Uncle Brian had been for a snack
to one of the tearooms in Goathland. Meanwhile we took the
opportunity to explore the village and look round the station.
The holiday was nearly over, so all
that remained today was for Dad to take us to have our usual end
of holiday group picture taken in the garden.
L-r
- Chuffer, Higson, Dunstan, Gladly, Dale, Fred, Vik, Scooter,
Fletcher
& in front Marty
Thank you Dad and
Uncle Brian, for a super holiday!!
And finally......
When we arrived, and
the door to the bedroom was opened, we were surprised to see
another teddy bear sitting on the desk. Further investigation
revealed his name was Huggie, and that he was available to be
adopted. He had been supplied by The Teddy Bear Adoption Agency.
Dad immediately picked him up and gave him a cuddle. He is very
soft and had a very appealing face. But Dad's dilemma was that he
is not supposed to be adding to the Hug, so he did his best to
resist. He did not take him on any days out, but all the time
when Dad was working on his computer Huggie was looking straight
at him. We really wanted him to come home with us, and finally on
the Wednesday afternoon he capitulated and arranged the adoption
with reception, who gave Dad the official adoption certificate.
Fred asked his Dad what he thought when he saw the bear that
first afternoon.
"I knew it was a
lost cause immediately", Uncle Brian replied.
Although he did not go
on any of the outings. we feel we must include a picture of him.
Dad was not all that enamoured with the name Huggie, and Uncle
Brian came up with the suggestion of calling him Ruswarp, after a
pretty village near Whitby. We all think it is a very
distinguished name. Here he is posing for his picture in our
garden.