THE RAILWAY BEARS' TRIP ON
"THE FELLSMAN"
28th July 2010
Preamble
Higgy, with his other Railway Bear
pals, Chuffer, Dale, Dunstan and Scooter, were reading through
the final draft of the story of their day on the North Yorkshire
Moors Railway.
"Looks OK", he said.
"Yes", agreed Dale.
"Now all that remains is for Uncle Brian to proof read it,
before Dad uploads it to STAG's site."
"It was a wonderful day,
especially as we did the journey to Whitby as well", said
Scooter.
"Even more so for Chuffer,
Dale and I, as we had never been on any of the line before",
added Dunstan.
"We have all got a memento too",
said Chuffer. "It was good of Dad to buy us that badge that
we all wear proudly."
"We are really the lucky ones
at the moment, as the day after tomorrow is Dad and Uncle Brian's
trip on "The Fellsman", over the famous Settle-Carlisle
route", called out Scooter excitedly. Adding, "We will
all be going along too, of course."
"I just can't wait",
replied Dale. "We have seen so many of the pictures Dad has
taken on his walks with STAG, near the line. It passes through
some really spectacular scenery."
"That's right, and they will
come in very useful, to illustrate some of the viaducts, tunnels
and stations along the line, that we will cross or pass through,
together with pictures Uncle Gerry takes on the day. I have
already asked STAG and they are quite happy for us to use them",
said Higgy.
We had better have a early night
tomorrow as it will be a long day and we want to be fully alert",
said Dunstan.
"The Fellsman"
The train departed at 08:08, so we
were up very early, to get to the station in good time by 07:30.
"The platform is very busy",
remarked Dale.
"Well I reckon quite a few are
waiting for the London train that is due shortly", replied
Scooter.
Sure enough, when the train arrived
over half of the people waiting, boarded it.
Just a few minutes later our train
arrived and we eagerly looked to see which locomotive would be
hauling us.
"It's Jubilee class 5690 'Leander'",
called out Chuffer, who is eagle eyed.
The 'Jubilee' class were designed
as express engines for all but the heaviest of mainline duties.
In all 191 were built, with splendid names associated with the
British Empire, also including many noted admirals and
commemorating former warships; others revived names of engines of
an earlier age. Just three members of the class remain in
operable condition.
No. 5690 was built at Crewe in
March 1936 and named Leander after HMS Leander, which in turn was
named after the Greek hero Leander. After being withdrawn in 1964
Leander was sold to Woodham Brothers scrap yard in Barry, South
Wales. She was rescued by Brian Oliver in 1972. Once restored she
lived a while at Dinting near Glossop, before being bought and
operated on the Severn Valley Railway. Following service on the
East Lancashire Railway she moved to her current base at
Carnforth.
This was the first running of The
Fellsman this year. It runs every Wednesday until the end of
September, every train being already fully booked. For extra
comfort and enjoyment we were travelling first class, a further
extra amount paid, for our Dads to have just a single seat facing
and back. We were in coach E and we ambled along to climb aboard.
Higgy said, "Uncle Gerry is
very accommodating, as Dad likes to ride facing the direction of
travel."
"I know. He does not mind, as
he still can see all the views", replied Scooter.
They settled in their seats and we
sat on the table in between, not moving for the whole journey as
we looked out of the window, enthralled by the scenery.
So, exactly on time, off we went,
gliding out of Lancaster Station. A gentleman came to check the
tickets, issuing complimentary vouchers for tea/coffee for
morning and afternoon. A nice perk for first class passengers and
not one that had been expected. A souvenir brochure was bought
too. This provided details of the route etc and was excellent
value at just £1. It was invaluable, enabling us to fully
appreciate and enjoy the scenery and the many other landmarks
viewable from the train.
We were travelling south on the
West Coast Main Line. After just 25 minutes the train arrived at
Preston where nearly all the empty seats filled up. The whistle
blew and minutes later we were off again passing through a number
of junctions to Bamber Bridge and Blackburn. At both stations
further passengers boarded. Departing Blackburn at 09.15, four
minutes later we reached Daisyfield Junction, where the train
turned north along the picturesque Ribble Valley Line. As the
name says this took us along the beautiful Ribble Valley
consisting of over two hundred and thirty square miles of rural
landscapes, moorland hill and river valleys. After passing
through stations called Ramsgreave & Wilpshire and Langho, we
crossed the River Calder by the beautiful Whalley Viaduct some
679 yards in length. After another three miles we reached
Clitheroe. We had all hoped for a dry day at least, but by the
time we reached here it was raining hard and the windows were
getting steamed up so spoiling the views. However, as we ran
further north the rain stopped and we enjoyed good views for the
rest of the day. Departing Clitheroe, it was now a half hour run
to Hellifield. This is the second station on this site, built in
1880, and has what are probably the finest example of awnings
supported by elaborate and ornate brackets, that 'fall away' from
the building.
Scrutinising the timetable, Dale
said, "we have a stop here for half an hour."
"That's so we can take on
water", replied Scooter.
"According to this notice that
was given out, the locomotive uses over 2000 gallons of water
every 60 miles", added Dunstan.
It was then just a mile along to
Long Preston, where the final passengers joined the train.
Continuing north we passed Settle Junction, where the line
branches off to Carnforth via Giggleswick, Bentham etc. Having so
far travelled some 60 miles, it was somewhat amusing to think
that along the branch, we were only about 30 or so miles from
Lancaster! Now on the Settle-Carlisle line, approaching Settle
station, we started the thirteen-mile climb of 1 in 100. This is
the infamous 'Long Drag'. A severe test of an engine man's skills
in the days of steam. Now hardly noticed by the modern diesels.
Beyond the town of Settle, the line
runs above the River Ribble.
Dad remarked to Uncle Brian, "I've
walked along there with Bob. That was the day I discovered Elaine's
at Feizor."
"I wondered when he would
start", said Dale laughingly.
The river is crossed via Sherrif
Brow Viaduct (58yds) and Little Viaduct (25yds).
Further on Scooter remarked, "there
are some large quarries over there."
They are quite enormous, like the
one I walked round with Uncle Bob", replied Dad. Adding,
"that was after I had walked along below that wall over
there, crossing all the walls at right angles by stone gap stiles."
"Oh heck, I hope he not going
to be like this all the way to Carlisle", pleaded Chuffer.
As we approached Horton in
Ribblesdale, we could see clearly the mountain Pen-y-ghent that
dominates the village to the east. Horton is famous as the
starting point of the "Three Peaks" walk. Some 24 miles
in length it involves climbing first Pen-y-ghent (2278ft) then
via Ribblehead to the summit of Whernside (2416ft), before
finally summiting Ingleborough (2373ft) on the return to Horton.
Here is Pen-y-ghent, taken on 8th March 2010 from the Settle to
Ribblehead road. The railway line is probably no more than half a
mile away to the west.
Just minutes later we were passing
through the station of Horton in Ribblesdale, at an altitude of
850ft. This like all the stations on the line has been lovingly
renovated and restored, with the help of "The Friends of the
Settle-Carlisle Line". The organisation was formed initially,
to save the line from the proposed closure by British Rail. The
fact that we were travelling today is a testament of their
success. This picture was taken on 31st August 2008.
"Well if that was Horton, then
it is only a few miles to Ribblehead Station and just beyond the
mighty viaduct that spans Batty Moss", called out Chuffer,
who like the rest of us was excited to cross it.
It was the cost of the repair and
upkeep of this structure that British Rail cited mainly in their
attempt to close the line. This picture taken on 29th April 2009,
is from the path to Blea Moor, looking south towards the road at
Ribblehead. The hill rising behind is Park Fell.
Constructed between 1870 and 1875,
there are 24 spans and it is 440 yards long and 165 feet high.
During its construction the moor below contained the shanty towns
that housed the builders. A temporary brickworks was also erected
to make some 20,000 bricks a day. Following the line being saved
in 1989, restoration work was carried out this being completed in
1991, the fact being commemorated by this monument that stands
below the viaduct. A plate at the back lists the names of the
shanty towns. They were - Batty Green, Belgravia, Blea Moor,
Inkerman, Jericho, Jerusalem, Sabastapol, Salt Lake and Tunnel
Huts. Some were probably associated with other projects on the
line such as Blea Moor Tunnel.
We stared down to the moor below,
while crossing the viaduct, wondering how the people coped with
the wild and appalling weather that they faced while completing
this monumental structure. Very soon we passed a signal box.
"That's Blea Moor, the most
remote signal box in Britain", said Higgy.
"I've walked past that a few
times, coming and going to Whernside or up over Blea Moor",
remarked his Uncle Gerry.
"Here he goes again",
said Chuffer.
"That means we are approaching
Blea Moor tunnel, which is the longest on the whole line",
said Scooter.
This is driven through the mass of
Blea Moor, where the workmen encountered gritstone, shale and
limestone. Taking five years to build it is 2629 yards long, and
at the maximum is 500ft below the moor top, describing an arc
through the hill. The construction involved 300 people working by
the light of candles. There are three ventilation shafts, which
Dad visited with Uncle Bob when they climbed the hill, and on
that day they noticed smoke emitting from one, caused by a steam
train just like ours today.
So storming out of the tunnel, the
train races along under the slopes of Wold Fell, crossing Dent
Head Viaduct. Built of local blue limestone, it has ten spans and
is 197yards long and 100 feet high,
to then shortly cross Arten Gill
Viaduct, over the tumbling stream from which it gets its name. It
is built of Dent marble and is generally accepted as the most
graceful viaduct on the line. It has eleven spans and is 220
yards long and 117 feet high. This picture was taken in December
2007. The hill behind is Whernside.
"Dent Station is next",
called out Higgy excitedly.
"That's right", replied
Dale. "It is the highest 'main line' station in Britain.
"1150 feet above sea level,
according to the sign", said eagle eyed Chuffer as we passed
through.
It is 5 miles from, and 600 feet
above the village it was built to serve. During the winter of
1947 snow drifts as high as the station roof blocked the line
here for two months. The snow fence, the remains of which can be
seen behind the station building on the left, was of little
effect that year.
Very soon we travelled through Rise
Hill Tunnel, the second longest on the line at 1213 yards. Coming
out at its northern end, we had passed into the valley of
Garsdale and its namesake station.
"I remember, when we travelled
this line in 1987, that this like many of the stations was
derelict and forlorn. It is wonderful to see them now so
beautifully restored", remarked Dad.
"This station was formerly
known as Hawes Junction. Until 1959 a line curved off right to
Hawes, and on to Northallerton", said Dale. "The
Wensleydale Railway, of which I am a member, has so far reopened
the line between Redmire and Leeming Bar, but they have a long
term ambition to extend east into Northallerton, and west to
connect once again with the Settle-Carlisle line here", he
went on.
"It will cost an awful lot of
money, but lets hope that eventually they are successful",
replied Scooter.
Dale's Dad took this picture about
a month after our trip, and if you look closely you can just make
out Higgy's Dad sitting on a seat beyond the signal box. This
seat is dedicated to Graham Nuttall, co-founder and first
secretary of the Friends of the Settle-Carlisle Line, who with
tens of thousands of people and one dog objected to the closure
of the line. The dog was Graham's faithful companion Ruswarp. His
paw print was accepted as a valid signature of objection, he
being a fare paying passenger.
Tragically Graham and Ruswarp
hardly had time to enjoy the railway they had helped to save, as
on 20th January 1990 they went walking in the Welsh mountains but
did not return. Graham had died and his body was not discovered
until 7th April 1990. Nearby was Ruswarp who had stayed with his
dead master for eleven winter weeks. Ruswarp was so weak, he had
to be carried off the mountain, but recovered and lived long
enough to be at his master's funeral. During this Ruswarp sat
patiently and silently, but as the curtains closed on the coffin
there was a long low muffled howl. Ruswarp's farewell. A statue
of Ruswarp was unveiled on the 11th April 2009 to commemorate the
20th anniversary of the government announcement that the Settle-Carlisle
line would not be closed.
Symbolising the saving of the line
and the loyalty of man's best friend, Ruswarp's eyes look towards
the hills and to the bench on the far platform dedicated to
Graham Nuttall. Garsdale was their favourite place.
An added bonus of the visit to the
station, was that our Dads saw a steam train, "The Waverley"
hauled by Royal Scot class 46115 "Scots Guardsman".
First as it approaches,
Then close-up as it powers through
the station, just like Leander today.
Almost immediately past Garsdale,
Scooter called out, "we are crossing Moorcock Viaduct. It
was originally called Dandry Mire Viaduct, after the bog it
crosses", he went on.
"That's right", agreed
Higgy. "It was not envisaged in the original plans, but
became necessary when the intended embankment refused to 'hold'."
Dale added, "there are twelve
spans and it is 227 yards long and 50 feet high."
Dunstan, who was studying the
brochure, called out, "we will soon be at Ais Gill, the
summit of the line at 1169ft above sea level."
We all kept our eyes peeled, but it
was our eagle eyed Chuffer, who suddenly cried, "there's the
sign indicating the summit."
Descending now, we passed through
the valley known as Mallerstang, and high up above us towered a
hill.
"What's that Uncle Gerry",
asked Higgy.
"Wild Boar Fell, which is 2322ft
high", he replied. "I climbed it in 2007 with Uncle Bob,
as well as the ridge on the east side of the valley. Up on the
slopes between High Seat and Hugh Seat is the source of the River
Eden, the valley of which we will follow to Carlisle.
Soon we passed through the station
at Kirkby Stephen and on towards Appleby where the train was to
make a second stop to take on water. The line once had a number
of other wayside stations, but these were axed as part of the
cuts to the network made by Dr. Beeching. Looking at the brochure,
these were clearly marked and gloried in names such as Crosby
Garrett, Culgaith, Little Salkeld, Ormside etc. We made a point
of keeping a look out and were able to spot some of them as we
continued to Carlisle. Ormside was one of the easier ones, and we
recalled that Dad had visited this on a walk in January this year.
Serving the village of Great Ormside, here are the old station
buildings, now used as a school. It is largely unaltered
externally apart from the ugly extension on the left. More about
Great Ormside and indeed Appleby can be found by clicking the
link here to STAG's walk in this area - Appleby & Great Ormside
Then, almost immediately we were
crossing the impressive Ormside viaduct, where the line crosses
the River Eden for the first time. There are 10 arches, the
structure being 200 yards long and 90 feet high.
It was then just a short run to
Appleby. Formerly the county town of the old county of
Westmorland, it lost its status, when this and Cumberland were
combined to form Cumbria, in 1972. Subsequently "in
Westmorland" was added to its name in recognition of its
former status. We stopped here to take on water again. Dad went
off, vying with many other passengers to take photos, while we
sat with Uncle Brian. Here we are.
We will now let him take
up the story for the time at Appleby. Such was the interest to
see the locomotive, that the platform was thronged with people.
I walked to the head of
the train, to get this shot of the front of Leander with 'The
Fellsman' headboard.
After a few unsuccessful
attempts to photograph Leander, I realised that the best vantage
point would be from the up platform, so I headed to the
footbridge to cross the tracks. Pausing on the bridge this is the
view looking north up the line,
and of the road tanker that had
brought the water to refill the tender of Leander.
Finally I got a good vantage point
on the up platform to take a number of shots of Leander, such as
this one below.
As the whistle sounded, I, like the
other passengers, were warned that the train was ready to depart,
so I hurried to rejoin Brian and the Railway Bears.
"Well", said Scooter.
"While you were getting the pictures, we have been pointed
out by a number of passengers and at least a dozen took our
picture."
"That's right", added
Uncle Brian. "I did my best to look aloof and hide behind
the curtain."
The whistle sounded again, and we
were off on the final stage of our outward journey. This took us
through the station of Langwathby, where in the building is the
Brief Encounter Coffee Shop & Restaurant.
"Have you been there"?,
asked Higson.
"Yes", replied his Dad.
"It was very good and was well worth the visit"
Continuing north we passed through
the stations of Lazonby and Kirkoswald, and Armathwaite, the
latter being just 10 miles from Carlisle.
"There are some more closed
stations before we get to Carlisle", said Dunstan, who was
studying the brochure again.
"What were they called",
asked Dale
"Cotehill, Cumwhinton &
Scotby", replied Dunstan.
So we kept our eyes peeled and we
managed to spot two of them as we speeded along.
Soon we joined a line coming in
from the right.
"That's the Tyne Valley Line
from Newcastle", said Dunstan.
Then just minutes later we saw the
overhead electric gantries, as we joined the main West Coast Main
Line again, and glided into Carlisle Station. Here we disembarked,
and the train left the station to return in just under two hours
for the return journey.
Higgy said, "we have
got our sandwiches, so we intend to sit and eat them on the
station, while we watch the trains coming and going."
"OK, but you take
care and behave yourselves", replied Uncle Gerry.
"We will", we
all cried out in unison.
So crossing the bridge
they headed out of the station. Higgy's Dad said "I do not
want to walk too far and we have been all round Carlisle in the
past."
"That's fine with me",
Uncle Gerry replied, who takes up the story for the lunch.
It was fortuitous that just outside
the station is the Hallmark Hotel, and the staff were handing out
vouchers to "Fellsman" passengers, offering meals at
discounted prices. So the decision was made to lunch here.
It is very nicely appointed, classy
and an attractive place to stay. We enjoyed a lovely toasted club
sandwich-triple-decker with bacon, chicken, salad and mayonnaise,
with tea to drink. It was excellent and filled a gap, also
passing a very pleasant hour. Then we ambled the few yards to the
station, searching out the Railway Bears, and sitting with them
until the train returned into the platform.
As we boarded Scooter said, "the
whole train had been turned round, so we get the view from the
opposite side on the return journey".
"That's fantastic", said
Chuffer.
So, the whistle sounded and on time
at 15.19, Leander pulled us out of the station on the reverse of
the route again enjoying the lovely spectacular scenery. As we
rode through Mallerstang, we were able to fully appreciate the
ridge that STAG had walked along with Dad and Uncle Bob. We could
see where they had made the ascent, and realised that it was
every bit as steep a climb as they had said.
Chuffer, ever eagle eyed, called
out, "there are the ruins of Pendragon Castle. Legend says
it was the home of Uther Pendragon, the father of King Arthur. It
was burnt down by the raiding Scots in 1541 and rebuilt by Lady
Anne Clifford in 1660." Dad took these shots in the early
morning of 8th April 2007, the day he and STAG walked the
Mallerstang Ridge.
As we exited Blea Moor Tunnel,
Scooter called out excitedly "we will soon be crossing
Ribblehead Viaduct again".
His Dad replied, "I am going
to try and get a picture from the train as we do that".
Other passengers had the same idea,
so Dad had to wait his turn. Although he says it is not a
particularly good shot, this was the result. The hill slopes
behind are Whernside.
As with the outward journey stops
were made again at Appleby and Hellifield to take on water. Then
leaving the Settle-Carlisle line, we returned along the Ribble
Valley Line, dropping passengers off, to Blackburn and then to
Preston. We were early here, so had to wait while three scheduled
main line trains passed north, before we could proceed to
Lancaster arriving about 20.30. Just a super super day and we had
enjoyed every minute!! What was so amazing too, were the number
of people of all ages whether standing in windows, gardens,
fields, etc who had turned out to see the train, either to take
pictures or wave. We all waved back too!
"I could do it again tomorrow",
said Higgy's Dad.
Doing it again this year is not
possible as all the trains are booked, but we were very
encouraged by the fact that our Dads are determined to do it
again next year, so we can look forward to another exciting day.
A big thank you too to the staff of
Statesman Rail, who were most pleasant and helpful and West Coast
Trains for the provision of Leander and carriages, and the driver
and firemen, who all made this journey possible.
And finally, during the journey,
staff came through selling souvenirs. One was a little Teddy Bear
wearing a high visibility jacket.
"I have just got to have him
as a memento of the day", said Scooter's Dad.
They call him "Freddie
Fellsman", but we decided to give him the name Leander after
the locomotive that hauled us today.