A BEARS' HOLIDAY TO THE
NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS
9th MAY 2011 to 13th MAY 2011
Preamble
Railway Bear, Scooter member of the
Bluebell Railway, was one afternoon quietly reading his latest
copy of the Bluebell News, with his pal Dale, who is a member of
the Wensleydale Railway.
Dale remarked, "progress is
being made on clearing Imberhorne Cutting, but there is still a
lot of money to raise, and they really need to do it before April
2012"
"You're right", agreed
Scooter. "Dad was kind enough to send off a good donation,
but I was wondering how to ask him if he will send some more."
"You want to ask Allen, he
seems to have the knack of getting round Dad", replied Dale.
Just then Higson (usually known as
Higgy), came rushing in. He called out excitedly, "Dad &
Uncle Brian have just booked to go in May to the Mallyan Spout
Hotel once again in Goathland, so I am sure that will mean we
will get a trip on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway."
"That's just great",
replied Scooter. "It can't come soon enough.
"That means our pals Chuffer
and Dunstan will be going and hopefully Leander who Dad adopted
on the Fellsman steam special over the Settle-Carlisle",
added Dale.
"Not forgetting of course Fred
and Gladly, our Chief Hug Bears, as they always go", said
Higgy.
That was all about a month before,
but the days seemed to fly by and soon it was the weekend before
departure.
"I am really excited about the
trip on the railway", said Higgy. "I can't wait to see
the new roof that has been installed on Pickering Station."
"Do you know which of our
other pals are going?", asked Scooter.
"Well we are for sure",
said Byron who had just strolled in with his pal Hamley. "I
originally came from Whitby, so Dad had said I deserve a trip
over there, and he agreed to take my pal too."
Just then Fred and Gladly walked in.
"Right", said Fred, "as you have knowledge of the
area, we will nominate you two to be the main narrators of the
story that will be written when we get home."
"Ooh dear, I don't know much
about writing", said Byron fearfully.
Allen, who with Tetley are the
authors of STAG's stories, piped up, "don't worry pals, Dad
will have written his diary, so you will have plenty of notes to
fall back on, and if you are stuck he will help you out."
"I know you are right",
replied Byron, "but we do not have your experience."
The journey to Goathland
Monday dawned, and there was a
great bustle around the house as Dad and Uncle Brian completed
their packing, after which Dad carried the cases etc out to the
car.
"We will be going in about 15
minutes so you had better make sure you have got everything."
"OK", I replied. Then
checking with the Railway Bears I said "have you all got
your membership cards, especially you Higgy."
"Yes Byron", replied
Higgy for them all.
So minutes later we dashed out and
settled in Dad's new car, for the journey. Many of us had not
been in it before, and we thought it very comfortable and
luxurious.
"Which way are we going",
asked Gladly.
"Not through the Yorkshire
Dales as we did last year, but up on the A66, which will take us
almost to the east coast. It is dual carriageway for much of its
length, so it will be an easier drive", Dad replied.
Leaving home we headed north, and
soon we were on the M6. As we climbed up more hills came into
view and then suddenly there was a whole range of hills before us.
"What are those", asked
Hamley.
"The Howgill Fells", Dad
replied. "STAG and I have climbed them all, and that one
over there is Linghaw, which was our last summit."
"Oh, don't start him off",
said Fred yawning loudly and promptly nodding off.
At the village of Tebay we left the
motorway and continued to pass through Kirkby Stephen.
As we approached, Leander said,
"look, that bridge carries the Settle-Carlisle line. We can
look forward to another trip on it in July."
"Can't wait", called out
Chuffer.
A few miles beyond we joined the A66
turning east. The road climbed up reaching about 1500ft at its
summit over Stainmore, and we could appreciate why it gets closed
in the winter and why high sided vehicles are banned in extreme
winds. Apart from a small section on the A1, this road was to
take us past Stockton and Middlesborough, and then leaving it we
came to the coast at Redcar. After winding through some
residential streets, we drove along a road, with a very wide grass
verge to the left, beyond which was a paved path above the beach.
This is called The Stray, and along it was the Stray Cafe.
Unsurprisingly Dad was hungry, so he pulled up outside. We had
sensibly packed a picnic which we had sitting on a seat
overlooking the sea.
Meanwhile Dad and Uncle Brian
enjoyed sausages, bacon egg and chips, with a large mug of tea.
This was followed by a fruit scone with butter for Uncle Brian
and a large piece of chocolate tiffin for Dad. No surprise there!
Settled again in the car, I asked,
"what was the cafe like?"
"Very nice and the food was
good, Byron", replied Uncle Brian.
We now continued south along the
coast through various places, including Saltburn and Sandsend to
then bypass Whitby, and on to the road to Pickering, to soon turn
and drop down to Goathland, passing through the village to the
Mallyan Spout Hotel, situated opposite the church.
The sheep wander at will here,
keeping the grass verges neatly trimmed, and at this time of year
there are lambs too with their mothers.
Last year our room was at the front,
but this time we had a room at the back. It was much bigger and
besides two easy chairs, there was a settee too. No prizes for
guessing who commandeered the settee!
Some of us
need no introduction but for those who are not so familiar with
us, we are from l-r - Dunstan,
with Leander sitting in front. Byron, Hamley, Fred, Gladly,
Snowdrift & Ruswarp with Chuffer sitting in front.
On the front row are Railway Bears, Scooter, Higson & Dale.
Through the large window was a
wonderful view over the neat gardens and fields to the Esk Valley
and beyond. Dad and Uncle Brian concluded this was one of the
best rooms in the hotel. It does not have a number on the door
rather a name - Beck Hole - after the next village down in the
valley. As you can see in the picture it was cloudy here in
Goathland, while the sun was shining brightly on the opposite
side of the valley.
After the journey, all any of us
wanted to do was just rest. Dinner for Uncle Brian and Dad was
booked for 19:30. Ruswarp, who was adopted here by Dad last year,
had, like Fletcher does at Armathwaite Hall, arranged room
service for us, so we enjoyed a lovely meal. The food here is
quite superb, and in short the Mallyan
Spout Hotel is a wonderful
place to stay. It can be recommended without reservation.
Tuesday
Today was to be spent on the North
Yorkshire Moors Railway (NYMR), so Dad and Uncle Brian were up
early as were the Railway Bears who were to go along too. The
rest of us decided to stay in bed and have a late breakfast. As
you know, Higson is the member bear of this railway, so I will
leave it to him to tell the tale of today.
"Thanks Byron", Higgy
replied.
Today's trip was to be basically a
repeat of last year and a very detailed account of that day is
elsewhere on this site. So, today's account will be much shorter
to avoid too much repeat. Mainly I want to highlight the feature
of the newly restored overall roof at Pickering station, with a
few other shots taken by Dad along the line.
Although the first train from
Goathland to Whitby, does not depart until 09:45, we like to get
to the station early and soak up the atmosphere. While Dad and
Uncle Gerry went to get their tickets, we continued to the
station platform, settling on the cart with the milk churns, as
the other seats were wet from overnight showers.
Here and at all the stations on the
line, and indeed at the other railways that my pals represent, we
are full of admiration for the dedication of the volunteers who
work tirelessly to maintain them for the benefit and pleasure of
the many visitors. Looking across, was the pretty scene of some
of the station flower beds and beyond the wall the steps that
lead up to the moor above trees resplendent with spring blossom.
The coded ringing of a bell in the
signal box, was followed by the clearing of the home signal,
indicating the imminent arrival of our train. This soon ran into
the station, hauled by diesel D5061.
"I hope that we will be steam
hauled on our other journeys", said Leander, who was
visiting for the first time.
On time we departed and headed
north for the 20 minute run to Grosmont. Here indeed Leander got
his wish as D5061 was replaced by LMS Stanier Class 5 4-6-0 45407,
originally built by Armstrong Whitworth in 1937. One of the so
called Black 5's. Here 45407 can be seen on approach to couple
with the carriages, with detached D5061 to the right.
Then the whistle sounded and we
pulled out of Grosmont station, leaving NYMR metals and crossing
on to the Network Rail metals of the Esk Valley line, to proceed
through Sleights and Ruswarp stations and so into Whitby. The
River Esk meanders and we crossed and recrossed it a number of
times on the delightfully pretty journey. We were also pleased to
see that Network Rail, had substantially renovated and painted
Sleights station from its derelict looking state last year.
With modern trains having a driving
cab at each end, there is only one line at Whitby station,
flower beds having replaced where the second line once was. Thus
there are no facilities to run the engine round. To comply with
Network Rail's rules, everyone had to get off the train while it
ran out to perform this manoeuvre. Adjacent to the station is a
large car park and supermarket. This was once the site of
additional platforms added by the North Eastern Railway in 1854,
engine and goods sheds and sidings.
We reboarded the train and settled
again on the table looking out of the window. At 11:00, the train
pulled out running alongside the River Esk, wide here as it
reaches its estuary. Through the road bridge Dad got this shot of
the stark ruins of Whitby Abbey, that stand on a headland above
the town.
"Wow that's a fantastic view",
called out Leander. "What a super day I am having. Thanks
for inviting me along pals."
"Your welcome", replied
Higgy.
The first monastery was founded in
657 AD by the Anglo Saxon King of Northumbria, Oswy, as
Streoneshalh (the older name for Whitby). He appointed Lady Hilda,
abbess of Hartlepool Abbey, to be the founding abbess. It
survived until about 870, when after successive raids by the
Danes the area was laid waste. After the conquest of England in
1066, Reinfrid a soldier of William the Conqueror, became a monk
and travelled to Streoneshalh, which was by then known as
Prestebi or Hwitebi (the "white settlement" in Old
Norse). He approached William de Percy who gave him the ruined
monastery and two carucates of land, to start the new monastery
that followed the Benedictine rule. This lasted until it was
destroyed by Henry VIII in 1540 during the Dissolution of the
Monasteries. If you are wondering, a carucate was a Medieval unit
of assessment for tax. It was based on the area a plough team of
eight oxen could till in a single annual season (equivalent to
120 acres).
The journey to Pickering should
have taken 40 minutes, but due to a passenger on the 11:00 from
Pickering to Grosmont being taken ill, we were delayed and stood
at Goathland for 45 minutes. There was nothing that could be done
as the track is single line, so we just had to be patient. At
least the train staff came through and gave regular updates
concerning the delay. Finally we arrived and the train drew in
under the magnificent new overall roof. We sat on a seat while
Dad kindly took our picture.
We then climbed up on to the bridge,
to see 45407 taking on water, prior to joining the front of the
train to form the delayed 13:00 service to Grosmont.
By now we were all hungry. While we
had our picnic on the station, Dad and Uncle Gerry went to the
station buffet for lunch. We admired the wonderful new roof, and
felt rather proud that Dad, Uncle Gerry, Chuffer, Dale, Dunstan,
Scooter and my name, are inscribed on seven of the slates. Later
Dad walked out of the station to take this external view for me.
We had been followed down by
locomotive 76079, running light engine. This is a powerful former
British Rail Standard Class 4MT 2-6-0, originally built in
Horwich in 1957.
It stood in the station for quite a
while, then when ready to depart let off steam, in a noise that
reverberated round the station with some people, Dad included,
putting their fingers in their ears. Uncle Gerry was just
returning to the station and took this shot. The people
immediately in front were about to be totally enveloped by the
steam. A fine view too, of the interior of the roof. The new roof
follows the design of the original constructed in 1845 and removed
by British Rail in 1951, being replaced by canopies. So it is to
be hoped that the new roof lasts at least as long.
After the noise had died down and
we had removed our paws from our ears, Scooter said, "wow,
that was quite deafening."
"Quite", replied Dale,
"my ears are still ringing!"
Due to the delay all the services
ran late for the rest of the day. Our return journey was to be on
the 15:00 service, which actually departed about 15:40. Here it
can be seen arriving headed by 80072. This is a former British
Rail Standard Class 4MT 2-6-4T, built at Brighton in the mid 1950's.
Last year we took this train up to
Grosmont before travelling back to Goathland, but due to the
delay, my Dad asked, "if you don't mind Lads, I would prefer
to get off at Goathland, as I am a bit tired now."
"No problem", I replied.
Chuffer added, " fine by me
too. We have had an absolutely super day."
We sat a while longer on the
platform before boarding the train making sure we were near the
front, as the platform at Goathland is not long enough to
accommodate the whole train.
As we sat waiting to depart, Dale
said, "just look at the serpent design of the supports for
that seat on the platform."
"Ooh yes. That is fascinating",
enthused Leander.
So the whistle sounded and the
train began to pull out of the station, Uncle Gerry taking this
shot leaning out of the window.
We enjoyed the return trip stopping
at Levisham, then on through beautiful Newtondale and
interestingly stopping at the request halt, to pick up people who
had been walking in the valley. Fifty minutes after leaving
Pickering, the train pulled in to Goathland, our destination and
the end of our day on the NYMR.
So, tired little Teddy Bears, we
returned to the hotel, to tell our other pals all about our day.
It had been quite magical, and we can tell you that we all slept
very soundly. Dad and Uncle Gerry had, like us, enjoyed every
minute.
"Back to you", Byron.
"Thanks", Higgy. "You
sure had a good day."
Wednesday
As we looked out the early morning
sun was shining brightly, its rays catching this beautifully
balanced tree, that stands in the field just beyond the boundary
of the hotel.
Today it was to be the turn of
Ruswarp, Snowdrift, Hamley and I to go out for the day. The plan
was to go to Runswick Bay, but first there was an errand that
once again would involve the North Yorkshire Moors Railway.
When our pals arrived back
yesterday afternoon they told us all about their day, and during
this Higgy remarked, "Uncle Gerry bought himself a t-shirt."
"Is it a special one?",
asked Ruswarp
"Well, yes", Higgy
replied. "Over the last two weeks up to last weekend there
has been a special steam gala, to celebrate the 175th anniversary
of the Whitby to Pickering line. In recognition of this a run of
just 175 of these special T-shirts were printed."
This morning Dad decided to wear
his new t-shirt, and Uncle Brian liked it so much that he decided
he would like one too.
"No problem", said Dad.
"On the way out we can go to the station shop at Goathland
and see if we can get one."
So in due course, after breakfast
my pals and I settled in the car, and we drove to the station.
Uncle Brian stayed in the car while Dad went to the shop. The
lady assistant was most pleasant. She explained that they did not
have the T-shirts here, only at Pickering and Grosmont. She
immediately rang the shop in Grosmont, and it was confirmed that
they had one the right size. The lady at Gromont even offered to
put it on the next train, but Dad explained we were going in that
direction so would call in to collect. When Dad told Uncle Brian
he was very pleased. It is just a few miles down to Grosmont, and
we were soon at the station, and Dad popped into the shop and
completed the purchase. By chance too the timing was such that
the 11.30 from Grosmont to Pickering was just about to depart. He
took a few shots and we include this one below.
The business now concluded, we took
the narrow road out that led to the main road at Sleights, and so
on to bypass Whitby, and continue up the coast, along the road we
had driven down on Monday, to turn right and follow the ever
steepening narrow road to Runswick Bay. There is a cafe here,
where Dad and Uncle Brian planned to have lunch, but as Dad found
out when he went to investigate, this was some way down a very
steep hill from the car park. Too much for Uncle Brian to walk,
so Dad drove down and dropped him off, before returning to the
car park. Between them they had little change, but Uncle Brian
had given Dad a £2 coin to pay the fee. This was fine, except
the machine did not accept such coins! So for the second time Dad
had to walk down, get 2x £1 coins from Uncle Brian to pay the
fee. As Dad sat down in the cafe, Uncle Brian commiserated with
him.
"Never mind, the exercise was
good for me!". Dad replied.
The cafe was a light airy
establishment, that served lovely sandwiches that were
accompanied by mugs of tea. After lunch we went and sat on a
seat looking at the lovely view and pretty village, while Dad
kindly took our picture.
l-r
Byron, Hamley, Snowdrift & Ruswarp
The land
rises steeply on all sides above the sea, and the pretty village
clings to the hillside above the beach. The single storied
building in the centre is the cafe. Uncle Brian is sitting on the
seat in the left of the picture.
The bay is a large horseshoe with
cliffs rising above the beach and rocky coastline, an imposing
headland enclosing it on the right as we looked out to sea.
For a little while we sat with
Uncle Brian, but it was actually quite cold and it started to
rain, so it was decided to get to the shelter of the car. Dad
took us with him as he climbed once again the steep hill. With us
settled in the car, he then quickly drove down to pick Uncle
Brian up. We then ambled back to Goathland. We had nevertheless
enjoyed our trip out.
"As this is a joint effort, it's
over to you now Hamley, to tell the tale of our final day"
"OK Byron", said Hamley.
Thursday
The previous evening Dad and Uncle
Gerry had discussed with much scrutinsing of maps, what they
might do today. Eventually a plan was formed to take a tour
across the moors and visit a village called Roseberry Abbey.
We were all having a lie in, but
Uncle Gerry was up early and before breakfast walked to the paper
shop to get Uncle Brian's Daily Telegraph. A pleasant
stroll he told us in the spring sunshine, with the sheep and
lambs browsing the verges. He told us too of what was an amusing
incident, but perhaps an everyday happening here. As he came out
of the hotel, he noticed a car stopped on the road, the driver
walking away behind a sheep. The driver returned, laughing, and
Uncle Gerry guessed he had had to stop and shoo a ewe and lamb
off the road.
While Dad and Uncle Gerry were
having breakfast there was some discussion amongst us, who should
go along today.
I said, "Fred and Gladly must
go, as they have not been out so far."
"OK", agreed Gladly,
"but we want some company too."
Scooter said, "we Railway
bears had such a good day out it is not fair for us to go."
Snowdrift then said, "Ruswarp
and I enjoyed yesterday, but we want a rest, so I suggest you and
Byron go along."
"That's kind", I replied.
So about 10:30 we settled in the
car and set off through the village and on to the main road, to
take the next left down over the moor to Grosmont, crossing the
railway and on along the road ahead to Egton, here taking the
left fork to Egton Bridge. Passed the station and continued under
the bridge, to then go ahead at the junction on the road signed
Rosedale 8 miles. The narrow road climbed steeply after crossing
a dry ford, to pass over Egton Grange and on to Egton High Moor.
The road, now unfenced, passed between the wild heather covered
moorland, reaching its summit near the junction with the road to
Glaisdale.
"I wouldn't like to get
marooned up here", remarked Fred. "Unlike STAG I am not
one for the outdoors."
Ever more steeply the road
descended, crossing the narrow Hamer Bridge and on down to the
pretty village of Rosedale Abbey, our destination. Splaying out
from its green dominated by a huge sycamore,
are the lovely mellow stone houses,
inn, shop/tearoom, school and church.
This, the parish church of St Mary
& St Laurence, was built in 1839, from the stone of the small
priory church and ruins of the once Rosedale Priory. Rosedale
Priory was founded in 1154 and stood as a place of study and
prayer until 1536, when it was destroyed by Henry VIII during the
Dissolution of the Monasteries. All that now remains of the
priory is a part of a turret staircase.
The current church is quite simple,
but very pleasing and Dad and Uncle Gerry sat a while in here in
quiet contemplation. This ancient stone chair was noted. We feel
sure that this must date from the time of founding of the priory
in the 12th century.
All that then remained before we
continued on our journey, was for us to settle on the seat under
the sycamore tree on the green, for our picture.
We were spotted by a couple who
were passing, so Uncle Gerry chatted to them and explained about
us and the sizeable Hug we belong to and of course about STAG.
They love the Lake District, and for many years holidayed at Low
Manesty close to the shore at the southern end of Derwentwater.
They told Dad that they were going to stay in Keswick next month.
Setting off again we now drove the
10 miles to Castleton. The road climbed to over 1400ft at
Rosedale Head, where there was a fantastic view back down the
valley. Beside the road we saw two stone crosses one painted
white, and a large standing stone. From the summit it descended
steadily to the pretty village of Castleton, with its stone
houses. From here we now drove along the valley of the River Esk,
passing through further pretty villages with their stone houses,
with names of Danby, Houlsyke, Lealholm & Glaisdale. During
the drive we criss-crossed over and under the railway a number of
times. Just through Glaisdale, this ancient packhorse bridge
spans the River Esk.
It is known as 'Beggar's (or Lover's
) Bridge', built in 1619 by Thomas Ferris. Years previously he
had been unable to meet his beloved Agnes due to floodwater,
before leaving to earn his fortune at sea. When he returned a
wealthy man he married Agnes, becoming mayor of Hull. He never
forgot however his struggles at Glaisdale, and paid to have the
bridge built, to prevent other couples from being parted.
So, the road led to Egton, where we
turned right, then left to come again to Grosmont, where Dad and
Uncle Gerry planned to have lunch at the station refreshment room.
The problem was that there were no spaces in the car park. We
drove to the other car park, to check on the charges, and as they
did not have any change, hoping perhaps that it might be free for
disabled badge holders, but this was not the case. Not having any
change Dad suggested parking beyond the level crossing, but no
parking was allowed. We drove on up the hill and turned round,
trying the NYMR car park again, and blessedly a disabled space
was free. It was £5 to park, but you did get a voucher for £1.50
off purchases in the cafe. Uncle Gerry dashed off to the shop to
change a note, buying a small badge for our pal Leander to wear,
to show that he had travelled on the railway. The fee paid, we
then sat on the station. There were coaches parked by the station,
which we discovered were a replacement bus service to Whitby, as
NYMR trains were not running beyond Grosmont, due to engineering
works on the Network Rail line.
"It's a good job you went on
the railway on Tuesday", said Gladly, "otherwise you,
Higgy and Co, would not have had such a good day."
"We would all have been
disappointed", replied his Dad.
The 13:30 for Pickering was
standing in the station, and we sat to watch it depart from
platform 3, hauled by 80072.
Uncle Gerry remarked, "that's
the locomotive that hauled our train from Pickering to Goathland,
on Tuesday."
Time for lunch. We had brought a
picnic so went and sat in a quiet corner of the station to have
this, while watching what was going on. Dad and Uncle Gerry went
to the refreshment room where they had a delicious sausage bun (3
sausages) and pots of tea. This was followed by a fruit scone
with butter (Dad) and chocolate covered flapjack (Uncle Gerry).
Both were scrumptious they said.
"Can we have our picture taken
here", asked Fred.
"Of course", replied
Uncle Gerry, promptly taking us across to the other platform
where there were plenty of free seats.
l-r
Byron, Fred, Hamley & Gladly
As we were having our picture taken
we were noticed and commented on by a lady. She asked if we had
names, Uncle Gerry obliging with the information. Looking at Fred
and Gladly, she then said, "those two are twins."
Sat now with Dad, watching the 14.30
for Pickering depart hauled by 45428. A train from Pickering had
recently arrived , hauled by 44767 'George Stephenson', which now
ran round to the front, pausing to allow one of the crew to
alight, heading for the refreshment room, soon to return with tea
and what looked like a sausage or bacon bun.
A shower came on, so we dived for
cover in the shop. Here Dad and Uncle Gerry each bought a NYMR
baseball cap. They chatted to the lady in the shop (she was the
lady, that yesterday, Uncle Gerry had bought Dad's t-shirt from).
They said we were staying at Mallyan Spout, and she commented
what a nice hotel it is, and how friendly are the staff.
It had been an exciting day, so we
were now ready to return to the hotel and rest, and tell our
other pals what we had seen.
Of course a story would not be
complete, without a group photo. So this happy band of bears
trooped out into the lovely gardens that surround the hotel,
and settled ourselves for our
picture.
And that was it. We all slept
soundly that night especially those of us who had been out today.
Friday
Dad and Uncle Gerry were up early,
packed and the luggage was put in the car before breakfast. We
stayed in the room to have our final breakfast, then settled in
the car for the journey home. We drove through heavy rain that
was heading east.
"Seems we are going home at
the right time", remarked Fred.
"It has been a great holiday,
and we all say a big thank you", added Gladly.
"It's only four weeks until we
go to Northumberland", went on Fred.
"This is the best home in all
the world", said Byron.