Hi, I am
Higson (Higgy to my pals).
We were excited to be back again at Saltmoore, and the prospect for my pals and I of the Hug Railway Club of another trip on the North
Yorkshire Moors Railway, of which I am proud to have been a member of since 1995.
We arrived on Monday and settled once again into our lovely spacious room 307. There are comfy chairs that we and our other pals commandeered. Uncle Gerry had the bed to stretch out on.
Yesterday our intrepid walking group STAG (Shaun, Tetley, Grizzly, Allen, Eric & Southey) went on an adventure in Esk Valley from Glaisdale in a circuit via Egton
(click the link to find out more).
While Uncle Gerry had
breakfast in the Brasserie, ours was served in the room, making
sure that we were well fortified, as it promised to be a long day.
It was to be a Big Kid, as far as Uncle Gerry was concerned, and Bears outing.
Scooter said, "there is the extra service to enable us to make a stop at an intermediate station, but I was wondering about perhaps just doing a there and back on the same train. This would then allow time for us to perhaps explore Whitby."
"That's an interesting thought", I replied. "What do you think pals?"
"I like the idea", said Chuffer. "Whitby is an interesting town, with the links to Dracula. And Higgy we could go and see the lifeboat that has your Dad's name in the decal."
"Oh yes." Then with a big sigh, "I miss him every day as we all do, but I feel it more today as it is exactly six years since he died."
"Uncle Brian loved travelling on trains, so he would be pleased that is what we are doing today", replied Dunstan.
"We have the two options then", said Leander. "We don't actually have to make a decision until we get to Pickering."
Making sure to be ready I said, "have you all got your membership cards."
"Yes" replied Dale, "we are all prepared."
Uncle Gerry had returned and was ready, so calling goodbye to our other pals we headed off, Fred saying, "have a good time. Take care."
"We will", replied Summer excitedly.
Just a short drive into Whitby, the station being just a short walk from the car park. I presented my membership card that enabled us to travel half price. The gentleman explained too, "it has been decided to run an extra Pullman service today, so these services are not running", putting a line through them on the timetable he gave us.
"Well that's the decision made", stated Scooter. "It's plan B. There and back and then and exploration of Whitby."
George said, "it is tradition that we have our picture taken here at Whitby, before setting of. There are some seats on the other platform."
l-r Summer, Scooter, Higson, Dunstan with Leander, Chuffer, George & Dale
Dale called out, "the train is arriving. It's diesel hauled too."
Dad was in shorts as usual, and there was some lighthearted banter with the volunteers, one commenting, "not sure we allow bare legs on the train."
His colleague added, "it is September after all."
"I'm in shorts all year", Dad replied, causing the gentleman to pull a face.
Boarding we found a seat and then sat on the table for a picture. Scooter and I had donned our hats adorned with badges of lines we had visited in the past.
Apart from George and Leander sitting together, I and my pals are members of different Heritage Railways. So from the left
Scooter - Bluebell Railway
Dale -Wensleydale Railway
Higson - North Yorkshire Moors Railway
Chuffer - Embsay Railway
Dunstan - Aln Valley Railway
Summer - East Lancashire Railway
We were wondering why the train was not steam hauled and overheard a guard explaining to some other passengers. "The line from here to Grosmont is Network Rail, so their rules apply. Only the locomotives that comply with their regulations are allowed to haul the carriages. Today none of the steam engines that comply are running." He then went on, "modern trains have central locking preventing unauthorized opening of the doors. Our carriages do not have that, so we have to have volunteers standing by each door to comply with the rules of the Office of Rail Regulation."
"That's something we have learnt today", commented Dunstan.
Whitby is the start of the Esk Valley line that runs to Middlesborough. Initially it runs alongside the River Esk, through the Northern Rail stations of Ruswarp and Sleights and crossing the river no less than five times on the way to Grosmont.
At Grosmont the train kept straight ahead to pull into the NYMR station. Another line curved right for the Northern Rail station.
"There's 10 minutes while they change the engine", said Leander.
Going to have a look, Summer said, "those flowers are ever so colourful."
We had been hauled by diesel class 37 Great Rocks.
This detached and was replaced by 63395, seen here edging slowly to the carriages.
I said, "63395 is a class T2 built for the North Eastern Railway in 1918 at the Darlington North Road Works. It is based here under the ownership to the North Eastern Locomotive Preservation Group. After the failure of the right hand cylinder and new casting from the Boro' Foundry in Stourbridge was ordered in February 2024. It was delivered in August 2024. The locomotive officially returned to service in July this year."
Our journey resumed, through the beautiful countryside passing this terrace of gaily painted houses.
After the stop at Goathland it was onwards to pass through Newton Dale, Dad capturing the engine working hard.
Finally we pulled into Pickering. "I know we are just getting this train back to Whitby, but there is time for us to alight and have our picture taken here", said Chuffer.
"Ok lad", agreed Dad.
Shortly before arriving, Dale had called out, "look there's Tornado 60163. Will you try and get a picture on the way back."
Tornado is a British Peppercorn A1 Pacific class steam locomotive, built by the A1 Steam Locomotive Trust and completed in 2008. It was the first main line steam locomotive built in the UK since 1960. We discovered that it was here to operate pre-booked special services on the NYMR tomorrow.
The journey back was delightful stopping again at Levisham and Goathland and then to Grosmont.
"Take a picture of the signal box, please", pointed Summer.
Here we said goodbye to 63395, 37 688 Great Rocks taking us on the final stretch to Whitby. Approaching we passed under the magnificent Esk Viaduct.
I told my pals, "its official name is the Larpool Viaduct. It has 13 brick arches and was built to carry the Scarborough and Whitby Railway over the River Esk. Due to the situation close to the sea the design avoided the use of iron, using brick and cement construction. Work began in 1882 and was completed by October 1884. It is 307 yards (279m) long, with the rail level reaching 120 feet (37m) high. Services on the line ended in March 1965. It became grade II listed in 1972. The viaduct open to the public is part of the 'Scarborough to Whitby Rail Trail', also promoted as the 'Scarborough to Whitby Cinder Track'."
"Our walking pals STAG walked part of the track from Ravenscar to Robin Hood's Bay", added Dunstan.
"There's the abbey ruins", called out George. "It would be great to have a closer look."
"It means climbing the 199 steps", said Dale.
"Well the exercise will do Uncle Gerry good", I replied.
"Huh, you cheeky lot", retorted Dad.
Out of the station, Summer asked, "which way do we go."
"I know", replied Chuffer. "I remember Byron telling us the route, when he and Ruswarp climbed them. Cross the bridge then take the second road on the left."
And soon, we were there. "Please take our picture sitting at the bottom", Scooter called out.
"Do we need to count the steps?, said George, noticing some people doing this.
"No lad", replied Dad, "when was here last time and met the gentleman who impersonates Dracula, he told me there is an indicator showing the number at the top."
"We must keep our eyes peeled for that", said Dunstan as with the rest of us turned to make the climb.
Scampering up we paused halfway to look back to the town.
And over the harbour.
Reaching the top, Dale called out, "look, there's two stone plaques with initials and the number 199."
Trying ourselves and then enlisting Grizzly, our expert researcher help, we were sadly unable to discover the names of the churchwardens attached to the initials.
At the top, by the church we saw this tall cross. "What is that about, Dad?, asked Leander.
"I have notes from the last time", replied Dad. "The cross was erected in 1898. Caedmon was a Northumbrian cowherd who cared for the animals at the monastery during the abbacy of St Hilda. He was originally ignorant of 'the art of song', but learned to compose one night in the course of a dream. He later became a zealous monk and an accomplished and inspirational Christian poet. On the front are four figures. From the top, Christ, David, Hild first abbess at the monastery, and Caedmon with his harp. Below the dedication reads - To the glory of God and in memory of Caedmon the father of English scared song. Fell asleep hard by 680."
"Must have our picture here", I insisted.
Strolling on to approach the ruins, our attention was drawn to another ancient cross.
"I remember Byron researching this", said Chuffer. "He found that the cross dates from the 14th century. Although the head is gone, the panelled shaft and capital are well preserved."
"We can sit by it", said Scooter...
..."while we look at the stark ruins of the Abbey."
"Wow", breathed Summer. "It must have been truly magnificent, before it became ruinous after the Dissolution of the Monasteries."
We then turned our eyes to St Mary's Church...
...and its surrounding ancient graveyard.
"Uncle Gerry, how did Dracula get associated with Whitby?"
"The novel was written by Bram Stoker. In July 1890 he came to stay in Whitby, and had a week to explore before being joined by his wife and son. He took in the views, including those of where we have been today. The steps, the ruined abbey, the church and graveyard.
On 8th August 1890 he went to the public library. There he found a book published in 1820, recording the experiences of British consul in Bucharest, William Wilkinson, in the principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia (now in Romania). The history mentioned a 15th century prince called Vlad Tepes who is said to have impaled his enemies on wooden stakes. He was known as Dracula - the 'son of the dragon'.
He would also have heard of the shipwreck of a Russian vessel called the Dmitry that ran aground below the east cliff. Whilst Stoker spent six more years researching the customs of Transylvania, the name of his villain and some of the novel's most dramatic scenes were inspired by his holiday in Whitby.
In the book, entries of the log of the ship Demeter, are included. This charts the gradual disappearance of the entire crew during the journey to Whitby, until only the captain is left, tied to the wheel, as the ship runs aground below east cliff on 8 August - the date that marked Stoker's discovery of the name 'Dracula' in Whitby library. A 'large dog' bounds from the wreck and runs up the 199 steps to the church, and from this moment, things begin to go horribly wrong.
Dracula has arrived...
"Phew", said Dunstan, a shiver going down his back. "I'm glad it is just a story."
Now making our way down the steps, Leander asked, "can we go and see the Caedmon statue, that Ruswarp told us about, near the bottom of the steps, and have our picture taken by it"
"For sure, lad."
"How do we know it is Caedmon?", asked Scooter.
"Well he is always pictured hold a harp", Uncle Gerry replied.
As we moved away, Dunstan called out, pointing, "look his name is inscribed in the stone."
"Thanks pal, that is very observant of you", said Dale.
All that remains now is to go and see the lifeboat and look for my Dad's name", said Higgy.
After a couple of false starts Dad found the side lane that gave us access, and we viewed Whitby's Shannon class lifeboat called Lois Ivan.
"Higgy, your Dad's name is in the decal on the right side as we look at the lifeboat", said Uncle Gerry. "That sign board is an exact replica of the decal, so if you all sit on that seat, I'll take your picture."
"Where's my Dad's name?, asked Higgy.
"In the first vertical of the 'N'. Come on lad we'll find it together."
I scanned down with Uncle Gerry, and after a little while called out, "there, Brian Keith Tooley. Oh Uncle Gerry, thank you so much for this memory of my Dad. He loved boats too, and liked it when it was rough. Never suffered from seasickness."
As we made our way to the car to return to Saltmoore, George said, "what wonderful day we have had. Thank you Dad."
"Although it is sad being the anniversary of my Dad's death, I know that he has been with us in spirit, and physically too with the ring containing some of his ashes that you are wearing Uncle Gerry, and that he would be very happy about what we have done and experienced."
After resting Dad went off for dinner in the Brasserie. As always some of us went to keep him company. Tonight it was Hillary, Frankie and Snuggles turn.
Hillary says, "a few of the waitresses came over the see us, making them smile. One liked Snuggles in particular."
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