BOWNESS
KNOTT, BROWN HOW (ENNERDALE), HERDUS, GREAT BORNE, GALE
FELL, STARLING DODD & LITTLE DODD (ENNERDALE)
Grizzly achieves his 1000th summit
Summary
Date - 14th August 2011
Distance - 8.5 miles
Ascent - 2715ft
Map - OL4
Start point -
Car park beneath
Bowness Knott (NY 109153)
Summits Achieved
Name
Height (ft)
Height (m)
Grid Ref
Bowness Knott
1093
333
NY 1121 1555
Brown How (Ennerdale)
1056
322
NY 1152 1583
Herdus
1844
562
NY 1175 1634
Great Borne
2019
616
NY 1239 1638
Gale Fell
1699
518
NY 1338 1637
Starling Dodd
2077
633
NY 1421 1574
Little Dodd (Ennerdale)
1936
590
NY 1491 1552
Preface
Shaun, Allen & Little Eric, were reading
quietly, while enjoying a mug of freshly brewed tea and biscuits.
Suddenly their quiet reverie was interrupted,
as Grizzly and Tetley came rushing into the room, Tetley calling
out, "I have news about our next adventure. We are going to
Ennerdale."
"Fantastic", cried Allen
"There are two walks we have to do from
there, so which one is it?", asked Shaun.
"First things first, pour us a mug of
tea", said Grizzly.
"OK pal", said Allen obligingly.
So all settled, Tetley then went on. "Dad
is planning to take us on the walk that starts with the ascent of
Bowness Knott, and in all we will visit seven summits on the day,
which for you Little Eric will mean seven more tops bagged,
including two more Wainwrights."
"Wonderful", exclaimed Little Eric
with glee.
"I'll get the map, so we can see the
route", said Shaun trotting across the room.
"It's a walk straight out of the
Birkett Almanac", added Allen, grabbing the book from the
shelf and thumbing through the pages.
By now Shaun had returned and spread the map
out on the table, and we all gathered round while he pointed out
the route.
"We start at this car park, then walk
back along the road and climb up behind Bowness Knott, and cross
to its summit. Then return to summit of Brown How, before climbing
the ravine of Rake Beck to Herdus and then across to Great Borne. Down by the
fence following along to Gale Fell, then up to Starling Dodd and
finally the short distance to Little Dodd. Then it's down to the
valley and back along the track."
"That's spot on pal", said Allen
who had been reading the text in the book. "The first three
summits will be Birketts we have not been to before and will
reduce our outstanding to eight."
"It will in actual fact be four
Birketts in truth", went on Tetley. "The last time we
were up here was in July 2005, before Dad bought the Birkett book.
When he checked them off he nominally claimed Gale Fell, but as
you can see from the map the path does not actually go to the
summit, marked by the corner post in the fence, but that will be
rectified on Sunday."
Grizzly was checking Dad's walk records on
the laptop, and said, "seven summits will mean that Little
Dodd, will be my 1000th.
"That will be fantastic pal. You will
join Tetley and I in having achieved that. We must remind Dad, so
that he can take your photo on your own there", enthused
Shaun.
"Well there's one thing for sure, it is
a long long drive, so that will mean an early start, so we better
have an early night on Saturday", said Allen, holding out
his mug for a refill.
"You are just like Dad, a real tea
belly", said Shaun laughingly as he poured the tea.
The Walk
It is 90 miles to the car park
below Bowness Knott, so we were indeed up early, and on the road
by about 07:15. M6 north then A66 to Cockermouth, turning left by
the Sheep Wool Centre, towards Cleator Moor, but turning off
after a few miles to pass through the village of Lamplugh.
"We parked here just opposite
the church, when we did the walk taking in Blake Fell amongst others" remarked Tetley.
"It was two years ago. How time flies."
A little further on the road dipped
down, and by a junction, Allen called out, "there's the
football score signpost (it reads Kirkland 1 Rowrah 2). This is
where we parked when we did the round including Gavel Fell."
"That was just a couple of
months before the walk from Lamplugh", added Tetley. "Do
you remember that terribly steep ascent of Knock Murton."
"I really felt for Dad, as not
only was it so unrelentingly steep, but a hot and oppressive day",
replied Shaun.
Shortly we reached the tiny
community of Croasdale Bridge, where turning left, we followed
the very narrow road to the rough car park under the trees, below
Bowness Knott, arriving just after 09:00. A good track continues
up the valley, but this car park is the limit for vehicular
traffic unless you are at the Youth Hostel or Field Centre.
Seeing the sign reading 'Welcome to Wild Ennerdale', Tetley said, "that is certainly true, especially
the upper sections below the mountain of Pillar etc."
Within
minutes it was raining hard. "Oh no", said Little Eric.
"We'll sit in the car, while it passes over", said Dad.
This proved to be a wise decision, as after about half an hour
the rain stopped, and so we finally set off about 09:50.
"That's Crag Fell, across the
lake", said Grizzly. "We climbed it with Uncle Bob."
"It's hard to believe that was
in July 2006", added Tetley.
"However do you remember all
this information?", said Little Eric, with awe.
"Don't know pal. I just seem
to have a head for dates etc.", replied Tetley. "Over
to the right below the fell is Angler's Crag. We walked
below that with Uncle Bob along that side of the lake, on that
very hot day, when we bagged Haycock, earlier in the same month."
"It will make a good close-up
shot", said Dad, lining up the camera.
The reminiscing over, Shaun instructed, "we walk back along the road to the end of the forestry, and then climb the
stile on the right by Rake Beck. Eventually we will actually follow
Rake Beck back to its source between Herdus and Great Borne."
A clear path climbed steadily
through the bracken to the forest corner, then continued on
upwards a little way to the left of the fence, with Brown How,
the second top of the day ahead.
Look at the fungi nestling in the
grass", called out Grizzly.
As we climbed towards the crest,
Bowness Knott, to the right came clearly into view.
Coming by the fence, Shaun stated, "we are looking for the stile over this to gain
access."
Looking over Allen said, "the forestry has been fairly recently felled, and perhaps the stile has been moved further up beyond the crest since Birkett
wrote his book?"
"Never mind, I'll just climb the fence" replied Dad.
As result of the forestry work the ground was covered in branches and debris, and
any path there may have been was largely obliterated.
"This will be hard going", said Dad. "A rough and unpleasant ascent."
Finally it was done. The summit is marked as a viewpoint on the OS map and indeed there is a
majestic view over Ennerdale, so we took time to look at this as we are
unlikely to return here again. Crag Fell and Angler's Crag can be seen
again, the fell beyond being Grike.
Little Eric then said, "come on pals, time to sit on the cairn for our picture."
Here we looked back the way we had come.
"That rocky heather strewn
knoll is Brown How, our next summit", said Shaun. "It
looks so close from here, but first Dad will have to renegotiate
that rough ground to the stile.", he sighed. "Then behind, the highest top is
Herdus a climb of some 800ft, up the ravine of Rake Beck to the right."
"Looks to be an interesting
climb", said Allen.
"OK lads, get settled again, time to be off", called out Dad.
The stile regained, it was a short
easy climb to the rocky knoll of Brown How, where we posed
amongst the heather. In late summer this makes for a very pretty
sight on the fell sides.
Grizzly told us, "the name literally means 'the brown hill'.
Herdus, now much closer, towered
over all. Also we had a closer view of the steep ravine of
Rake Beck, with Scaw to its right, via which we faced the 800ft
of climb to Herdus's summit. "That must be the start of the path just about discernible to the right of the beck through then heather", commented Allen.
Dad made the short descent to cross
a path running below Brown How, and so start up Rake Beck. Being
hidden in the heather and other vegetation, there was little in
view at any time, but the cunning path was never in doubt,
climbing steadily and winding its way up the fell. Rough and
rocky in places, it was real Lake District walking. Dad took his
time and was careful as the rocks were wet and slick after the
rain. Despite looks, it never felt really steep, unlike Scale
Knott when we climbed Mellbreak, and was just a great scrambly
climb that we all enjoyed.
At one point the beck
tumbled down in this pretty waterfall. "That's got to be worth a picture Dad", enthused Grizzly.
We had also passed a curious circle
of stones, of a height akin to a sheepfold, but there was no
entrance. "I wonder what this is meant to represent?",
mused Little Eric. "There is a triangular structure too."
None of us really knew, but Tetley suggested, "I wonder if they are Andy Goldsworthy sculptures.
"I'll see what I can find on the Internet when we get home", said Grizzly. Later he told us, "I have been able to solve the mystery of the circular structure, as I hit upon a report on the website www.dry-stone.co.uk, and there is a picture of this very one, as clearly in the background can be seen Brown How, Bowness Knott and Ennerdale Water. It is a Fox Bield or more correctly a Fox Trap. When it was constructed is not known but certainly no later than the 18th century. Bait was placed inside that attracted foxes. The top has overhanging stones, so once inside the fox could not climb out. As for the triangular structure, I drew a blank."
As we climbed on Tetley called out,
"Dad there is a fine view of where we have been earlier. I
think it would be worth a picture, for inclusion in the
story."
"OK lad", replied Dad as
he hauled the camera out of its bag.
Even so close, the path just walked
is partly hidden in the heather. Far below can be seen the rocky
knoll of Brown How and behind Bowness Knott, bare of its forest
covering, standing above Ennerdale Water.
Eventually the ascent levelled and
we reached a plateau. "This is the source of Rake Beck, between
Herdus on the left and Great Borne ahead and right", said Shaun. "We continue a along the path, then shortly go left to Herdus."
Keeping our eyes peeled it was Allen who called out, "here's the narrow trod left."
Soon the cairn marking its summit was in view.
And there we quickly scrambled out and settled on it for our picture.
"That's the three Birketts
done ", called out Shaun
"Yippee" we cheered.
Grizzly then said, "according to Diana Whaley's book on Lake District place names, Herdus is seemingly 'herd-house; herd from the Old English hi(e)rde, heorde 'herdsman', plus house.
The cloud base was still low at
times and as we were having our picture taken it rolled in and
Great Borne, our next summit temporarily disappeared. It soon
rolled away, and by the time we were ready for the off all was
clear once again. Crossing the plateau, a path climbed quickly to level
ground, and it was then just a couple of hundred yards across the
bouldery ground to the trig point marking the summit of Great
Borne.
"Come on", urged Little Eric. "It's calm enough for us to sit on top."
Once again Grizzly enlightened us about the name. 'Bourne' is probably a boundary. The large cairn here, is on a parish boundary. Either the hill or the cairn could be described as great."
Just a minute later, a couple
arrived at the summit, the first walkers we had seen so far today.
Having done a good part of the climbing, Allen said, "I'm hungry, let's stop here for a bite to eat."
"Ok lad, we'll sit by the shelter."
By now the clouds were lifting and the dramatic views were becoming
clearer, although the mist was still hanging over the mountains
at the top of Ennerdale. The zoomed shot below is of Pillar, with
high on its slopes just below the cloud, Pillar Rock. Tetley said, "that is a Birkett,
but it can only be reached by a rock climb. So will be the only
one we do not actually summit. Nevertheless if all the other summits are reached it is accepted that the Birkett challenge is attained."
"Were ready when you are Dad",
said Allen packing the remnants of the picnic in his rucksack.
"Right", Dad replied,
"settle yourselves in my rucksack, and we will be on our way."
A fence in a dip, bisects the two
tops of Great Borne, and we descended by it on a reasonable path
to the corner, where bearing left we continued along the path
towards Starling Dodd. It was along here that we met the only
other walkers today, a group of five people.
"This was the path we took in
2005, so it is clear that we did not actually summit Gale Fell", said Shaun. "We need to strike left
off this path and cross to the fence corner which is Gale Fell's
summit."
"According to Birkett, marked
by a stout corner post", added Tetley.
This was soon achieved and here we
are by said stout corner post.
"Now, that's truly just eight
Birkett summits to go", said Dad
"Yippee!", we all cried
out.
With his back to the post, Dad now
walked ahead, and crossing a dip, we joined the main path, and the
climb was soon accomplished to Starling Dodd. The top is grassy,
and bare apart from the two cairns - one of stone and the other
mainly the old fence posts as we remembered from last time.
"That's a fantastical cairn",
cried Little Eric, who had not been here before. "Let's
climb up to have our picture taken."
Grizzly said, "the origin of the name is interesting. Of course Dodd is just another name for a hill. Starling seems to be named from the track Styalein which is named in Loweswater bounds of 1230. This in turn seems to be an inversion compound meaning 'Alan's path', from the Old Norse stigr or Old English stig 'steep path' and the personal name Alein of Breton origin but popular in Middle England."
"Thank you pal", said Shaun. "Indeed very interesting, as are all your insights that add to the enjoyment of our adventures."
By now the views were stupendous,
and Dad took a number of shots.
Allen was first to describe the view, pointing, "there are the upper reaches of Ennerdale
leading to the Black Sail Pass. The mountains overshadowing it are from the left, Green
Gable, the pudding basin shape of Great Gable,
Kirk Fell and dominant to the right Pillar."
Then turning our backs on this view, Tetley said, "that's Crummock Water, dominated by from the left, Whiteside
and Grasmoor, with the steep end of Rannerdale Knotts
on the right above the lake. The lower summit of Lad Hows can be seen to the right of Grasmoor. Leading behind is the ongoing path that leads to the extremely steep ascent to the summit of Grasmoor."
Looking ahead in the direction of our walk, Grizzly said, "we can see the flat top of Little Dodd and beyond Red Pike with High Stile rising behind."
"You took us up to Red Pike
last time", said Tetley.
"I did", replied Dad,
"but that day we started from Buttermere not Ennerdale."
So onwards now to our final objective
Little Dodd (Ennerdale), the rounded rise in the foreground of
the above picture. The clear path from Starling Dodd,
bypasses Little Dodd, so at the fork it was right to cross the flat top, to the
similar fence post cairn marking the summit. This was a
significant milestone for our pal Grizzly, as it marked his 1000th
summit. We all gave him a hug to congratulate him on the
achievement. Here he is sitting proudly at the cairn.
Soon after leaving the summit, we came across this
Herdwick ewe, looking rather thin having been shorn, and its lamb.
They are totally ignoring us, looking to another Herdwick about
50 yards away. The ewe was not happy at all about the proximity
of this other sheep, which she appeared to perceive as a threat
to her lamb, and she successfully forced the 'intruder' to move
off.
Up to now Shaun and Dad had been paying close
attention to Bill Birkett's description of the route, but maybe
it was the sheep that distracted them. Whatever, we headed
straight off the fell, rather than walking on first to the ravine
of Gillflinter Beck, the descent of which would have been easier
than the steep route we took through rocks, and heather.
"I will never learn", Dad
said, after a particularly awkward section.
Finally however it was accomplished,
after forcing his way through a section of bracken to gain the
proper path, that wound on down to reach the unsurfaced road in
the valley at Gillerthwaite. At least there had been wonderful
views up the valley towards Black Sail Pass, like this of Pillar,
with Pillar Rock prominent too.
All that now remained was the
basically level about two miles walk along the unsurfaced valley
road to the car.
"Easy walking at last", said Little Eric. "It is pretty along here under the trees, and by the lake."
"Thank you Dad for a truly great day
out", said Allen. "We have made significant progress with the remaining
Birkett tops. Finally we have the outstanding down to single figures."
Faced with the long drive home, Dad
said, "I am going to get a good way before stopping for a
meal."
"I guess Junction 38 Services",
said Tetley.
"That's right lad."
After a hearty plateful of steak
and vegetable pie, chips, beans, carrot & swede, followed by
chocolate rice crispy cake with tea, he was duly fortified and a
quick run down the M6 got us home in about another 45 minutes.
And finally the stats - Little Eric
bagged all seven tops, including two Wainwrights (Great Borne
& Starling Dodd). The rest of us bagged 4 Birketts (Bowness
Knott, Brown How, Herdus and Gale Fell).