COAL
ROAD, BELOW GREAT KNOUTBERRY HILL & ARTEN GILL from
DENT STATION
Summary
Date - 16th February 2011
Distance - 6.5.miles
Ascent - 1000ft
Map - OL2
Start point - Dent station (SD
764875)
Preface
It was a dark winter
evening so we were glad to be inside snug and warm in our cosy
home. We were gathered round with our Railway Bear pals,
discussing the Settle-Carlisle railway.
"It is great that
you have done all those walks in Yorkshire close to different
parts of the line, as the photographs were of great use when we
wrote our story about the steam train journey over the line",
said Higson.
"We have been
ever so fortunate as you say", replied Allen. "It was a
significant day when we met Uncle Bob on Fellbarrow, because as a
direct result, we have since explored all the Yorkshire Dales."
Grizzly added, "you
were very welcome to use the pictures, which complemented those
Dad took from the train. It must have been an exciting day, and
to be honest we would have loved to have come along too. Not
possible however, as it would be too much for Dad to cope with
and we could not all sit and look out of the window."
Scooter said, "we
wish you could have come along, so you could point out all the
places of interest and where you have walked. Uncle Brian has
booked again for the end of July, so we will have the pleasure of
reliving the journey again."
"We are a lucky
lot, to have a Dad who takes us out so much", said Tetley.
"I would not want to live anywhere else."
Just then Dad wandered
in. "Well Tetley, you and your pals are to get another
outing tomorrow. We are walking with Uncle Eric, starting from
Dent Station and crossing beneath Great Knoutberry Hill and then
down Arten Gill.
"Well that's a
coincidence", said Shaun, "we were just talking about
the Settle-Carlisle line with our Railway Bear pals."
"We have done
some of that walk before, back in 2007 when we climbed Great
Knoutberry Hill with Uncle Bob, but we have not been down Arten
Gill", said Tetley whose memory of past walks in prodigious.
"That will enable
you to see close up the magnificent Arten Gill viaduct",
said Leander. "It is said to be the most stylish on the
whole line."
"We'll be sure to
tell you all about it", replied Little Eric.
The Walk
Dent Station, stands high above
Dentdale, and there are two routes that Dad can use to get there.
Either through Kingsdale from Ingleton, or via Barbondale.
"Which way are we going"?,
asked Shaun.
"Via Barbondale, as otherwise
I will have to open and close the gates across the road through
Kingsdale", Dad replied. "Also taking that route I will
be able to call at Mr Williamson's in Barbon, and stock up on
marmalade and chutney."
So we took the route up the Lune
Valley, to Kirkby Lonsdale and Barbon, then climbing steeply out
of the village and on through the narrow valley of Barbondale,
with to the left, the steep slopes of Middleton Fell.
"We've enjoyed two great walks
on that fell one with Uncle Eric and the other with Uncle Bob",
remarked Allen.
"Do you remember on the one
with Uncle Bob, we were threatened by that thunderstorm. The
skies were as black as night, but fortunately our route took us
west away from it. The gentleman we passed walking the other way
would not have been so lucky", said Grizzly.
"On that second walk, I bagged
the three summits on the fell, so we have all done it", said
Little Eric.
Soon we were dropping down into
Dentdale, and just a short way along we passed through the pretty
village of Dent, with its cobbled streets. Then it was on along
the narrow road through the dale, to take the narrow road up to
the station. We were delayed here because a lorry was parked
across the road. There was no driver in it and Dad was rather
nonplussed. However he soon reappeared, and apologising moved his
vehicle. Dad reckoned he had been asking directions to his
destination, at a nearby house.
Uncle Eric was already there, and
we apologised for keeping him waiting. We were soon ready for the
off, and had timed it right to to see the 10:16 train, bound for
Carlisle. Here it is standing in the station. Note that it has
been painted to depict scenes from Yorkshire towns and cities. In
view is the Alhambra Theatre at Bradford.
A number of passengers disembarked
here, mostly walkers like us. Then the train was soon on its way
speeding north round the curve.
So, thinking about the great day
our Railway Bear pals had had on the Settle-Carlisle line in last
July, we put best paw forward and started on our walk, on a day
that was to be dry with sunny periods, mild and with little wind.
Almost felt like spring. From the station we turned right,
crossing the bridge in the picture above, and climbing the road
that runs between Dentdale and Garsdale reaching a height of 1750ft
at its summit. There were once ancient mining and quarrying
industries in Dentdale and bell pits on the hillsides reveal the
sites of small open cast coal mines and and as a consequence this
road is known as the Coal Road. We did not have to climb all the
way to the highest point, but nevertheless there was a steady
continuous climb for about a mile, until we reached the bridleway
going off right that curves round on the slopes of Great
Knoutberry Hill. Here Uncle Eric signifies the route while kindly
opening the gate.
As we strolled along we reflected
on the last time we had been along this track, in December 2007
in the company of Uncle Bob.
"It was cloudy and damp on the
December day when we met Uncle Bob", said Allen.
"Sure was pal, and unlike
today Great Knoutberry Hill was covered in cloud", added
Shaun.
Just as well that the fence we
followed took us directly to the trig point at the summit. It was
surrounded by a moat so we would have got very wet if we had
fallen off", remarked Tetley.
Grizzly said, "we hung in
there, but we got our bottoms wet. Dad could have used his map
case for us to sit on."
Still it was a good day and once we
reached Arten Gill and started up Wold Fell, the day was dry and
clear with good views", replied Allen.
After a few minutes walking, we
paused to look across to Great Coum that stands above Dent
village, and of this fantastic view of the dale. The distant hill
is Middleton Fell, below which we had driven this morning through
Barbondale.
We reached the gates and fence that
climbs directly up the fell, and Dad told Uncle Eric that this
had been where we and Uncle Bob had made the ascent. Further on a
stream crossed the path dropping in a small waterfall to the
ravine beyond. This is Harber Gill. It descends to the valley,
there joining the River Dee that runs through Dentdale.
Again we paused here to look back
to Dent Station, dominated by the massive bulk of Aye Gill Pike.
"What a day we had when we
climbed that", said Tetley.
"Ooh I remember it well,
replied Shaun. "All was green in the valley, but the fell
was deeply covered in snow and any path was completely
obliterated. Not only that we had to contend with frequent snow
showers and strong winds. What a hard walk that was."
"We certainly knew we had been
out that day. When was it Tetley?," asked Allen.
"March 2008, in fact Easter
Sunday, and to add insult to injury the weather was dry and sunny
in Morecambe!" Aye Gill Pike
Walking on, the path finally
descended to Arten Gill. Beyond we could see the slopes of Wold
Fell, that we had climbed with Uncle Bob in December 2007.
However our route today was to descend the gill. The lane
following Arten Gill, is part of an ancient drovers' route that
passed from Dentdale to Wensleydale in the east. For generations
the route was the main link between the communities of the
western dales and the market town of Hawes and beyond.
After passing through the gate, we
continued down, to find a place to sit and enjoy our lunch, out
of the wind. We were sitting on a convenient boulder eating our
sandwiches, when Grizzly pointed, and said, "when we set off
it won't be very far to reach the magnificent viaduct."
"Can't wait to see it close up",
enthused Little Eric, "but before we set off will you take a
proper picture of us, to include in the story?"
"OK lads", said Dad.
Soon the majestic viaduct loomed
above us, the year 1875 being inscribed in stone on either side,
marking the completion of its construction.
We looked in wonder at this
magnificent feat of Victorian engineering, seen in close up by us
for the first time. Dad took a number of shots but this one shows
the viaduct off at its best.
There are 11 spans in its 220 yards
length and it stands 117 feet high. Some of the piers had to be
sunk 55 feet below the ground to secure an adequate foundation.
It is constructed of a local variety of stone, which when polished
is known as Dent or Black marble.
We were now almost in the valley
and soon we reached the road at Stone House. Here and in the Gill
there was once much industrial activity, and an interesting
information board provided fascinating details.
Across the Dales, kilns were built
to make quick lime, that was used locally in the production of
building materials such as plaster and mortar. Also it was
applied to grazing land and its main use was for 'sweetening' the
grass for livestock. Most that survive today are over 150 years
old, being built near a source such as a limestone pavement and
by a track to allow stone and coal to be transported by horse and
cart. At Stone House these natural resources were readily
available. The process involved limestone being heated in a kiln
using coal brought from further up the Gill, along the lane we
had walked. Small limestone quarries abound nearby while colliery
spoil heaps on Great Knoutberry Fell bear witness to this lost
local industry.
To reach the road we crossed Stone
House Bridge, where Stone House marble works was located. It was
the focus of the Dent Marble Industry that thrived here in the
nineteenth century. Dent Marble isn't marble at all - it is a
dark limestone with a high fossil content. This stone became
popular and was sold far and wide, being used for making such
items as fireplace surrounds and balustrades. Production waned
due to competition from foreign imports and all that remains
today of this bygone industry are the marble manager's house and
a series of earth works.
The history lesson over, we now
turned right and followed the road to Cowgill, to then climb very
steeply up the narrow road to Dent Station. Pauses were necessary
for Dad and Uncle Eric to catch their breath, and Dad took an
opportunity to snap one last shot of Arten Gill Viaduct, with
Wold Fell rising behind. To the right of the viaduct can be seen
spoil heaps, from the original construction of the railway in the
1870s.
"Where now Dad?", asked
Grizzly, as we settled in the car.
"To Dent village", Dad
replied, "so that Uncle Eric and I can have some refreshment."
"I thought that would be the
case", said Allen laughingly.
When in Dent they usually go to
Stone Close cafe, and today was no exception. A scone with butter
and jam, accompanied by a pot of tea, rounded the day of nicely
for them.
Thank you Uncle Eric and Dad, for a
very enjoyable and interesting day.